Designer Colleen Allen

Blending the simplicity of fabrics and intricacy of shape, Colleen Allen is the next big designer to look out for.

Models wearing full Colleen Allen from the Colleen Allen Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Photo available via colleenallen.com. ©All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

With three collections to her name, Colleen Allen is a fresh, rising designer. Her collections speak to the beauty of simplicity and the importance of a garment’s shape. In terms of her fashion and design education, Allen learned from the best. She graduated from Central Saint Martins, interned for Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, then worked on menswear at The Row. Her tailoring and design skills have enabled her to focus on the clothes themselves, rather than a vague idea for her creative vision. This focus shows itself in the beauty of Allen’s garments. Upon first glance, a sleeveless top or silk pants might appear simple, yet their meaning is anything but.

The first collection, Colleen Allen Fall/Winter 2024, included some peculiar (and quite witchy) elements. Linen shorts hung down to the models’ knees and pleated outwards. As if referencing the Salem witch trials, Allen designed cotton caps that snugged the models' heads. Also, the silhouettes of the looks referenced past womenswear trends. A buttoned mulberry tailored coat constricted the torso. The same can be said about the Victorian fleece jacket that appeared in both crimson and vermillion. In contrast, a cream full-length nightgown covered the body. In a modest fashion, most of the garments covered the arms and legs.

Models wearing the Colleen Allen Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Photos available via colleenallen.com. ©All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Additionally, the looks were primarily monochromatic, with a few multicolored versions included. Specifically, the color scheme focused on contrasting bright crimson, vermillion, and mulberry with shades of white and beige. This effect put emphasis on the bright colors, drawing attention away from the lighter pieces. Creating a specific color scheme isn’t unheard of, but Allen chose these colors to create a contrast. The combination of the historical silhouettes and these vivid hues gave previous fashions a new life.

For the second collection, Allen used different fabrics on an entirely different design level. What does this mean exactly? In summary, she took more risks and used her skills accordingly. In general, Spring/Summer 2025 included more structural elements. For example, a mesh gown covered the body and ruffled fabric trickled down the torso like blooming florals. The collection also included a separate matching top made with the same materials, the only difference being the ruffles situated around the neck.

Models wearing the Colleen Allen Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Photos available via colleenallen.com. ©All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In terms of fabric, Allen continued to design with cotton but added in silk, velvet, and tulle. Surely, as the label gained more traction and popularity, she felt more creative agency to experiment with new materials. The inclusion of these different fabrics diversified the garments. A matching set, including a navy top and bottom, added a new level of modernity to the collection. Specifically, this top constricted the model’s torso, similar to that of previous garments.

The latest collection is perhaps the most complex yet. Not only were there more looks, but more models were included in the shoots. This is a clear product of the label gaining a larger, more loyal following. In terms of color, black appeared across the collection. For hues, Allen worked with fabrics of either a bright purple, red, blue, or chartreuse. As with the previous collections, a number of the looks relied on the contrast between colors. Bright red leather oven mitts clashed against a chartreuse maxi skirt. A black overcoat was paired with ruffled cream fabric layered around the bottom.

Models wearing the Colleen Allen Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Photos available via colleenallen.com. ©All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In addition, the fabrics used in the latest pieces show how skilled Allen is at manipulating fabric. The blue buttoned coat (as shown above) is a recreation of the coat from the first collection. Now, it reappeared in a more vivid hue in velvet instead of cotton. Additionally, Allen designed a number of dresses for this collection. From the satin slip dress to the mesh, transparent gown, these pieces are tailored and cut perfectly. They cling tight to the body but in a way that allows the wearer to breathe and move with ease.

While these garments are made of high-quality materials, they bring up an excellent point. Clothing pieces, no matter how expensive, should be lived in. How can fashion continue without wearable pieces? It can’t, and that’s why Allen’s name is spreading fast within the industry. Each piece in these collections is meant for the wearer to live their fullest life in. Clearly, no one finds beauty in simplicity more than Colleen Allen.