Vintage Mugler Dreams
Thierry Mugler ruled the ‘90s with his flashy runway shows and fantastical designs.
Model Adriana Sklenaříková wearing La Chimère during the Mugler Fall 1997 Couture Fashion Show. Photo by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Without a formal fashion education, Thierry Mugler created some of the best looks in fashion history. The French designer, who created his brand in 1973, ruled the runway with his imaginative designs. He continued his thunderous blaze across couture and ready-to-wear seasons until 2002 when he retired. Though he left the industry, his influence continues to inspire upcoming designers and fashion-lovers today.
If this writer is honest, (and totally not biased) no decade shows his creative genius better than the ‘90s. With the birth of the supermodel, and the rise of paparazzi, his shows fit in perfectly with the cultural climate. Each of Thierry Mugler’s collections spoke to a kind of flashy campiness the world wasn’t prepared for (but we surely appreciate it today).
Starting off strong, and quite wild, Mugler unveiled his Spring 1992 Ready-to-Wear collection and defied expectations. In general, ready-to-wear collections showcase a designer’s newest pieces that, well, buyers can wear. However, as the show progressed, this changed. Chandelier dresses, cow print pants, and jeweled tops made a splash against leather trousers and tailored jackets. The looks embraced tight waists with coats or dresses that shot out around the hip.
Models walking during the Mugler Spring 1992 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
In terms of theme, Western country met highway grunge and ‘90s glamour pitched in. For materials, Mugler designed primarily with leather, silicon, and cotton. A number of the looks placed emphasis on the neck, whether that was through collared tops, neck ties, or actual chokers. Regarding Mugler’s impact on the fashion industry, this collection is important for two reasons: corsetry and design revolution.
In the current fashion climate, corsets are everywhere. Consumers wear them for lingerie, a night out, or as part of their formal dresses. The cinched waist is still a main feature within many designers’ collections. With his heavy dedication to this style of top, Mugler practically invented them. During the show, the audience watched a golden corset shine down the runway, then a tight, red top that popped out against its black laces.
The last, and perhaps the most iconic piece in this collection, was the Harley-Davidson bustier. In the middle of the show, model Niki Taylor strutted out wearing this top as part of a mega-Western ensemble. The bustier, resembling a Harley Davidson motorcycle, was paired with leather tassel shorts, flamed boots, black leather gloves, and a thigh band holding a beverage can. Though it wasn’t the finishing look for the collection, it helped Mugler show (or dare this writer say) drive his designs into the mainstream.
Models walking during the Mugler Fall 1995 Couture Fashion Show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
In 1995, Mugler kicked things up a notch. His Fall 1995 Couture collection shared a whole new world with the audience. Specifically, one that incorporated a lot of latex and dark whimsy throughout. The color black spread over a number of the looks in the form of dresses, suits, hats, and heels. Dark suits and skirts, along with their structure, cinched the models’ waists. Additionally, oversized jackets played a role in enlarging their bodies to otherworldly shapes.
In forms of fantasy, this collection brought it all. The models brought to life stylish characters like heiresses, widows, circus performers, and movie stars. (Note: current designers, please bring this theatricality back!) For materials, Mugler designed these pieces primarily using latex, cotton, and silk. The material qualities of these fabrics helped authenticate each look. For example, a black, latex tailored dress turned one model from ordinary into the ‘90s version of today’s “office siren.”
In terms of design, there were two looks that stood out from the rest: the robot suit and the red feathered gown. In true genius fashion, Mugler designed the robot suit with symmetrical armored pieces and plexiglass inserts. Similarly, the red gown, with its dazzling sequins and delicate feathers, took hours of meticulous work to create. Both of these outfits were recently worn by celebrities: Cardi B wore the feathered gown during the opening of “Thierry Mugler, Couturissime” and Zendaya stunned in the robot suit for the world premiere of “Dune: Part Two.”
Models walking during the Mugler Fall 1997 Couture Fashion Show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Continuing a sense of darkness, Mugler unveiled his Fall 1997 Couture collection during Paris Fashion Week (and lives were changed). A few latex pieces popped out, along with the addition of fur overcoats and sculpted dresses. In addition, this collection showcased a number of sharp-cut pieces like skirts and dramatic flared tops. For drama, a stark contrast between white and black helped shape the formality of the outfits. Hair played a huge role in this show, with some models wearing intricate headpieces or slick up-dos.
If there’s anyone who doesn’t believe in the power of Thierry Mugler, they haven’t heard about the final look for this show. Model Adriana Sklenaříková shocked the audience wearing the most astounding gown ever: La Chimère. The gown was a collaboration between Mugler, corsetiere Mr. Pearl, and artist Jean-Jacques Urcun. Between these mega-talents and the house’s team, this extravagant piece took over two years to create. The armor had to be crafted and then each scale was meticulously hand-painted. To this day, no one has come close to the beauty of La Chimère.
Thierry Mugler, before his retirement, shocked and amazed the fashion world with his collections. The ‘90s weren’t his peak but just the beginning of his mainstream runway success. As he passed in 2022, his impact on the industry, specifically haute couture, will not be forgotten. Whether you love Mugler or not, he proved a crucial point: not everyone needs a formal fashion education to succeed.
