The New Era
When we talk about sustainability, the first thought that often comes to mind concerns ecology, pollution prevention, and non-waste.
Grimes in Givenchy Haute Couture on the cover of the April 2012 issue of DazedPhotography Hedi Slimane, styling Robbie Spencer
At first glance, we refer to the environment and the ecosystem in which we live: we can thus envision ourselves committed to not using disposable plastic bottles, to saving resources such as water, to recycling waste, and to using public transport, among other things. Over time, we have slowly realized that the concept of sustainability is broader than that, being divided into its well-known three pillars: environmental sustainability, which involves non-pollution and resource conservation; economic sustainability, which ensures employment through resource growth; and social sustainability, emphasizing equality and respect for workers' and human rights. This concept was officially sanctioned in 1992 during the first UN conference on the environment, defining sustainability as the "condition of a development model capable of ensuring the needs of the present generation without compromising future generations' ability to meet their own." This innovative concept extends to all fields of human existence and production, including fashion, beauty, and jewelry industries.
After all, just take a look around: I myself open my wardrobe and see many clothes, many worn only a few times; I think about how many clothes, shoes, and bags I buy and discard. I observe my constant desire for new fashion items and notice the same in others. The same applies to jewelry: opening my jewelry box, I see numerous earrings and rings (I'm passionate about them), but the same applies to necklaces and bracelets. The demand for these items is high and growing, as is their production and the consequent use of resources.
The 2006 film "Blood Diamond," directed by Edward Zwick and starring Leonardo DiCaprio, deepened my understanding of the issues surrounding precious gems and metals. Since then, I've wondered about achieving sustainability in metals, precious stones, and jewelry, which are often used briefly and then forgotten or discarded. These items may cost vast amounts of land, produce toxic waste, and involve illegal labor, conflicts, and civil wars.
I'm not sure if "Blood Diamond" initiated public debate on the Kimberley Process and the jewelry industry or vice versa. However, since 2006, there has been a notable increase in sustainability-oriented purchases, particularly among younger generations who are more conscious of the ethical nature of precious items (report by McKinsey - BoF). By 2025, a third of global purchases are expected to be sustainability-oriented, focusing on traceability, transparency, resource consumption, and human rights, regardless of the design and origin of the items.
Brands are already competing on ethical certifications for jewelry, although this involves complex challenges. Major production companies request to expand the term "conflict diamonds" to cover other critical issues, as demonstrated during the Russian-Ukrainian conflict.
Photo by Christopher Campbell on Unsplash
Unfortunately, the major issue in jewelry sustainability is the voluntary nature of industry controls, which are still limited and ineffective in combating the trade of silver, gold, gems, and "war diamonds." The NGO RJC highlights that signatories of ethical protocols are almost all brands, with extraction companies and other supply chain players still a minority and hard to identify. So, what are the alternatives? How can we promote a beauty that is both individual and global? The answer seems to be in lab-grown diamonds, fair trade gold, cultured pearls, ecologically extracted gems, recycled materials through upcycling, recycling of past jewels, and promoting local craftsmanship.
The objective is for ethics and beauty to coexist in highly prized objects, reducing their impact on people and the planet. Examples of sustainable jewelry brands include Gucci, Missoma, Inbilico, Maraismara, Valley Rose, Rever, and others, focusing on traceability and reducing emissions, water and energy use, and supporting ethical labor and local artisans. In conclusion, foundations for hope are being laid but, as stated on the Missoma website: "100% sustainable jewelry doesn't exist, and we know that." A very precious eye-catcher.
