State of Play

Anyone in the mood to play? The Spring 2025 Couture and Fall 2025 Menswear shows produced dreams of luxury. Or at least it did for Viktor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel. While each of these collections told a distinct story, they all share one aspect in common: a sense of youth. 

A model wearing a sequined, tulle gown during Chanel’s Spring 2025 Couture show. Photo by Alessandro Viero, courtesy of Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Chanel’s Spring 2025 Couture show relied on the craft of the house’s artisans. During the curation of this collection, Virginie Viard left her position and Matthieu Blazy had not yet been announced as the next creative director. This allowed the house to look back on previous collections for inspiration. In the midst of current political chaos, this show offered a much-needed break. It reminded us of the house’s past and how Chanel has stood the test of time. This collection proved that fashion can still be an escape-or in this case-a whimsical watch.  

The iconic tweed suit came back reinvisioned with sparkling, lighter fabrics. The first looks embraced the hues of spring with peach, sage, and cream garments. Metallic buttons and black ribbons adorned coats, blouses, and gowns. Though it might seem like the house relied on old tricks, this collection marked a transitional period and felt relaxing to watch. Pastel tulle and floral prints flowed down the runway. Sheer fabric spread across the models’ bodies. Lace, tweed, or silk fabrics wrapped their arms. Even the slightly heavier, darker looks sparkled from sequins and sheer embellishment. The garments moved with ease, as if the collection pictured a child’s dreamscape or a Chanel lover’s fairytale.

A model wearing full Chanel during Chanel’s Spring 2025 Couture show. Photo by Alessandro Viero, courtesy of Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The final look, a wedding gown, is exemplary of a luxury fairytale. The classic tweed jacket was reinvisioned with icy sequins. A cap with delicate florals kept the veil steady. The icing on the cake, or wedding cake in this case, is the detailing on the train. The pleated tulle extended the gown’s length while the additional sequins and feathers added flair. This was a phenomenal end to the show as it called back to Karl Lagerfeld’s “Chanel brides.” 

A model wearing tailored pants and a white shirt adorned with a Victorian doll during the Viktor & Rolf Spring 2025 Couture show. Photo by Isidore Montag, courtesy of Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The Viktor & Rolf Spring 2025 Couture show embraced the rich, historical side of design. Trench coats thick with ruffles, layers, and again, bows covered the models. The creative directors embraced a simple color palette: navy blue, white, and a warm beige. The looks resulted in well-tailored and formal characters. Models wore ruffled blouses, coats with extended shoulders, and pantaloon-esque bottoms. To add to the overall theme of grandeur, the show was held in The Westin Paris. This historical institution is decked out in gold paneled walls and chandeliers- perfect for Marie Antoinette. 

With their seemingly powdered up-dos, the models appeared ready for court, in a luxurious 1800s kind of way. Nevertheless, Horsting and Snoeren proved their creative genius. They limited their scope for color, but not their scope for structure or silhouette. Throughout the collection, the oversized nature of the coats extended the models’ torsos and arms. For overall cohesion, each model wore ballet flats with a crossed strap. 

On the fantastical side, one particular model wore a Victorian doll attached to her tailored shirt. What better way to convey fantasy than a well-dressed antique? In terms of physical designs, the tailoring was nothing short of phenomenal. Even the collared button downs were cropped, ruched, and ruffled in more ways than one. Tie in the enlarged capes, and you get fresh, couture-level pieces. Turns out, themes of wonder and play can be beautifully tailored after all. 

A model wearing full Louis Vuitton during the Louis Vuitton Fall 2025 Menswear show. Photo by Armando Grillo, courtesy of Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The Louis Vuitton Fall 2025 Menswear show–another phrase for a playful masterpiece. Creative director of LV Menswear Pharrell Williams and fashion designer Nigo collaborated on this collection. The show mixed modern business wear with elements from current street style. Printed, animated images of the designers’ heads appeared on coats and bags. Slick leather jackets and geometric jeans made a bold impression. 

A few models were styled as mail carriers, pushing translucent, floral monogrammed trunks down the runway. Is there anything more original than that? The traditional nature of the suit was reinvisioned with funkier prints and styled with jeans. Nigo and Pharrell seemingly catered these pieces towards the younger generations. Perhaps they want to influence Gen Z as they head into the corporate workforce. These business wear reinvisions created a sense of modernity and youth that flowed throughout this collection. Vivid colors and patterns elevated streetwear pieces like cargo pants to a new level. As each look told a different story, the models appeared like characters in a high-luxury video game.  

How is it possible this collection gets even more dazzling? Through the bags, of course. All 84 of the looks, yes 84, included some form of a backpack, trunk, or smaller bag. While the number of looks is a feat alone, the detail of these bags carry weight too. The bags showed a flashy mix of checkerboard, crocodile print, the house’s LV monogram, and more. To show the level of detail in this collection, one particular leather bag was designed with vintage-looking Louis Vuitton patches. 

From pixelated jackets to floral trunks, the imaginations of Nigo and Pharrell know no bounds. Through collaboration, the two furthered their professional relationship. They truly enjoyed themselves while creating the collection, and this passion shines through each piece. This collection is a prime example of what’s produced when two designers collaborate, and more importantly, what’s created when they have fun.