Gold is the New Black
Schiaparelli's Icarus Couture line aims to “create something that feels new because it’s old.”
Chol Khan modeling Look 6 photographed by unknown via Instagram © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The Icarus collection by Schiaparelli flew to the sun in its debut Paris show on January 27th, 2025. The gilded hues that comprise much of each piece were inspired by a vintage ribbon box discovered by designer Daniel Roseberry. In the collection’s introduction, Roseberry described the elevated neutral palette as having “old and unusual color references,” calling back to the house's founding in 1927. The show took place in the Petit Palais museum, with ornate golden walls mirrored on the models, making the show a point of brightness amidst the bleak winter.
The palette gave consistency to a collection that otherwise spanned widely in every possible direction. The shining gold and beige pieces call to mind the sunlight that plays a central role in the tale of Icarus, whose wings are represented throughout the collection with feather embellishments worn on several models. Elsa Schiaparelli, the house's founder and namesake, had a strong affinity for collections that told a story. It is clear that this tradition has continued throughout the house's near century of designs. Another Schiaparelli signature was avant-garde fabrics and adornments. From curling strings of pearls to fringe to nude bras accessorizing fully exposed chests, this heritage had definitely been kept alive.
Left: Alex Consani modeling Look 9 photographed by unknown via Schiaparelli Center: Close-up of Look 7 photographed by unknown via Instagram Right: Columba Mballo modeling Look 24 photographed by unknown via Schiaparelli © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Each detail is set against a glossy blond canvas, making the collection feel reminiscent of a treasure chest, a long-lost marvel recently brought back to the surface. “I’m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity,” Roseberry writes, “Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant?” Roseberry took it upon himself to bring the extravagance, and it did not disappoint. Whether this manifested itself in dramatic tulle skirts, exaggerated hips, or the return of the bullet bra silhouette, every piece of this collection has an element that brings grandeur.
2025 has already been shown to be the year of the neutral color palette. With Pantone naming Mocha Mousse their color of the year, it would not be a surprise if designers went back to basics with their hues and focused instead on creating innovative silhouettes, textures, and embellishments. Especially with consumers being extra conscious about their closets, there is a high demand for pieces that will be as stylish in 20 years as they are now. Rising inflation and growing environmental consciousness has led to cautious buyers, making statement colors a less desirable choice. Schiaparelli has undoubtedly set a high bar with this collection, with a stunning variety of shapes and styles in a color range that suits a diverse range of skin tones. The question remains, as fashion weeks approach, who will soar, and whose melted wings will send them tumbling?
Ala Tubilewicz modeling Look 8 photographed by unknown via Schiaparelli. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
