Recognising Indian Embroidery
There has been an ongoing, quiet struggle for recognition of craftsmanship in Haute Couture. Indian embroiderers are not receiving the credit they rightfully deserve. Why is this happening, and how has it come to be?
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture SS20, Jamie Stoker, British Vogue
One thing is certain: Haute Couture Week is always a showstopper. The biannual event in Paris features only the most exquisite designers and brands. Only fashion houses that meet the stringent criteria set by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture are permitted to showcase their designs. These handcrafted garments are particularly intriguing, with each piece requiring hundreds of hours of labour. Blood, sweat, and tears truly go into Haute Couture Week. It is a celebration of the pinnacle of luxury and the highest standards of fashion. As one of the most anticipated events, it’s no wonder designers and brands vie for participation. However, some contributors in the production chain must fight harder for recognition of their labour.
Textiles are more than just exquisite fabrics. They are deeply intertwined with culture, expressed through national garments and a country’s relationship to textile production. In India, textiles have always held great cultural significance. The Indian textile and apparel industry is the second-largest employer and one of the oldest in the world. Embroidery, an important subsector, involves adorning fabric with needle and thread. In India, embroidery is a traditional practice and a cultural heritage. Today, it is a niche industry with specialized and highly skilled workers. India is renowned for its craftsmanship and world-famous embroidery designs, which have gained significant importance in Europe.
Embroidery, Indian Ateliers, Elle India
But something seems to happen when embroidered textiles are shipped from India to Europe, especially France: the credit seems to shift. Once French tailors alter these fabrics for Haute Couture Week, the recognition often goes to the tailors rather than the Indian embroiderers. This is not the fault of the tailors nor the embroiderers, but an issue of transparency within the Couture industry. Many brands prefer to keep their sources secret, valuing the allure of mystery. Yet, India's substantial role in Haute Couture Week is undeniable, with 90% of hand embroideries coming from India. It’s clear that India has played a crucial role in the story of Haute Couture, a role that has been largely overlooked. However, some artists are stepping forward, pushing for change.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, the director of Dior Couture’s SS22 show, believes it is time to speak up and highlight Indian craftsmanship. For the show, she commissioned a large 3,600-square-foot tapestry as the backdrop, embroidered at Mumbai’s Chanakya School of Craft. With this, she aimed to recognize and celebrate India’s contribution to Haute Couture, giving credit where it is rightfully deserved. She advocates for more transparency and the recognition of a country’s history and importance within the industry.
Tapestry, Dior Paris Haute Couture Week SS22, Harper’s BAZAAR
Rahul Mishra, an Indian couturier, is also pushing for change. He is optimistic that Paris Haute Couture Week can help raise India's profile in the Couture industry. He believes that the acknowledgment of Indian craftsmanship will deepen, allowing India to be rightfully celebrated in Haute Couture. Rahul honors his Indian heritage with European cuts in his designs, creating something truly unique. When it comes to fighting for recognition, he does a great job. He has empowered remote communities in India by employing local textile artisans, merging traditions with modern designs. His work is breathtaking, blending fashion with design while celebrating the unrecognized.
Rahul Mishra, Paris Haute Couture Week SS20, Forbes India
Recognition and credit for craftsmanship is no easy task, especially when a garment crosses borders and passes from hand to hand. The creation of couture pieces is a collaborative effort, and that should be the focus. Increased transparency in the fashion and couture industry might aid these efforts. In this case, not receiving rightful credit for a handcrafted product is a cultural issue. India’s contribution to the couture industry is deeply entwined with its culture and history. Couture is just one example, and the hope for the future is more transparency and celebration. It is time to honor the skilled laborers who have perfected their craft over generations. This responsibility lies with the industry, brands, and designers. In such a creative field as couture, there must be ways to pay tribute to the makers of the garments. For the upcoming Haute Couture Week, will you be keeping an eye out for deserved recognition?
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture SS20, Jamie Stoker, British Vogue
