Calcaterra SS 2025

The Calcaterra Spring/Summer 2025 collection is rooted in the harmonious relationship between the elements—Fire, Earth, Water, and Air. Shifting from deep reds to airy whites, the designs reflect nature’s fluidity through fabrics like organza silk and fil coupé, which capture the graceful movement of leaves or the vivid colors of nature. One standout piece is a striking red dress adorned with delicate silk chiffon fringes. The collection’s soft, enveloping silhouettes embrace Calcaterra’s signature idea of rebirth.

In a landscape where trends quickly come and go, Calcaterra has established itself as a brand that bets on permanence, understated style, and sophistication. The Spring-Summer 2025 collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week, is a faithful continuation of that aesthetic, further cementing Daniele Calcaterra as a designer of contemporary minimalism. Everything in this collection speaks to binaries.

The show began with an explosion of tones that, although mostly neutral, were punctuated by strong red accents. Crisp whites, soft beiges, olive greens, and a range of blacks predominated, but there was also space for ensembles that introduced a striking visual accent through total red looks. Although at times the pairing of certain shades of white with natural tones seemed uncertain, the color palette served as a reminder that, in expert hands, even the most consistent schemes can surprise. The contrast between white—an achromatic color—and black, associated with the absence of light, was further intensified by vibrant touches of red, a primary color that heightened the visual proposal.

Calcaterra’s total red look, shot by Raandoom at the SS25 Fashion Show in Milan.

This use of neutral colors, combined with precise forms, managed to convey a sense of calm and balance in a world increasingly saturated with visual stimuli. However, the most intriguing aspect was how these simple colors intertwined with innovative and lightweight materials that danced to the rhythm of the human body, such as fringes.

Calcaterra is known for his meticulous attention to detail, and in this collection, every pleat, drape, and cut reflected a deep understanding of the body's architecture. The garments seemed to flow as if they were a natural part of those who wore them. Long tunics and wide trousers were key elements, highlighting the designer's ability to play with proportions without compromising tailoring.

“Masculine” garments, a hallmark of Calcaterra’s collections, fluidly merged with “feminine” pieces, blurring gender boundaries and culminating in an androgynous silhouette. The interplay between structured tailoring and organic draping created a sense of movement and fluidity. This was further emphasized by the choice of lightweight fabrics like linen, organic gauze, and gabardines, which provided structure while naturally accompanying the body’s form.

In past collections, Calcaterra has explored extreme textures, incorporating fringes, experimental fabrics, and innovative ways of creating volume. This time, the designer continued that search, embracing the organic and ethically responsible. A clear example was the faux fur coats, constructed with fringe-like detailing, which contrasted sharply with garments made from flat fabrics, structured by tailoring and clear morphological decisions such as pleats and darts.

Shoes tied to pants to create volume. Shot by Raandoom at the SS25 Fashion Show in Milan.

As for the jewelry, it played a role in enhancing morphology and adding subtle touches of color. While the chains did not contribute significantly to the collection's narrative, the organic golden accessories added personality to the outfits. However, the hardware did not play a prominent role in the sense-making of the collection, nor did it serve a functional design purpose, although their absence was noticeable.

The key element that defined the collection was the interplay between bodily movement and its limitation—opposites that found symbiosis on this runway. While the draping enabled fluidity of movement, the textures exaggerated this dynamism, contrasting with the more rigid ensembles and tailored silhouettes where structure restricted mobility. In these instances, the garments enveloped the body so completely that the body's actual function seemed lost within the fabrics, altering their original purpose. The evening’s centerpiece was a striking monochromatic red ensemble, accompanied by a fringed accessory. A precisely placed dart framed the hips, while the upper design trapped the torso, making the model’s silhouette emerge with strength on the runway.

The Calcaterra SS 2025 collection stood out for its harmony between structure and fluidity, creating a narrative where opposites not only coexisted but complemented each other.

The combination of textures, colors, and minimalist forms offered a reflection on fashion's boundaries: between the visible and the hidden, the organic and the structural, movement and stillness. Daniele Calcaterra once again demonstrated that true luxury resides in simplicity—in the ability to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary, and in the idea of creating pieces that are both art and clothing.