Antonio Marras SS25
As Milan Fashion Week began, Antonio Marras delivered a striking collection, alongside a nostalgic story. Drawing inspiration from Anna Maria Pierangeli’s style in the ‘50s, the collection was curated as a modern-day interpretation of the fashion icon’s emotional divide between Acapulco, Sardinia, and Hollywood.
Arriving at the venue, we were greeted by a live band playing soft jazz music accompanied by a modern dance performance as the guests settled into their seats. It was immediately clear that the designer wanted to tell a story, creating an atmosphere in which the clothes could speak for themselves. As the models began making their way down the runway, the band picked up the tempo—matching each song with the pace of the collection. Whether we were in Sardinia, Hollywood, or Acapulco, the music reflected the place, time, and mood.
Antonio Marras’ SS25 collection was inspired by the life story of Anna Maria Pierangeli, a young Catholic girl entering the world of Hollywood in the early 1950s. Discovered in Rome, Pierangeli made her cinematic debut at 17 years old with the film Tomorrow is Too Late alongside Vittorio de Sica. Quickly after, the actress won an award at the Venice Film Festival, which skyrocketed her Hollywood career. Terribly homesick, she fell in love with James Dean in the summer of 1954—a forbidden love affair as he was not Catholic. Months later, she would go on to marry Vic Damone, which would ultimately end in divorce. In 1962, Pierangeli remarried Armando Trovajoli, which also ended in divorce. A life away from home, in endless search of comfort, her life was in turbulent glamour. Her life work included Somebody Up There Likes Me, The Story of Three Loves, The Devil Makes Three, and many more.
Marras showcased a variety of men’s and women’s looks, 85 in total, each playing their own role in telling Pierangeli’s story. The collection consisted of overlapping materials, fabrics, lace, prints, and embroidery—a mix of elements from the three significant locations constantly interlaced with one another. Divided into three parts, the collection reflected Sardinia, Acapulco, and Hollywood. The jacquard details seen across many of the pieces were inspired by Sardinia, while the tropical colors, patterns, and textures evoked the Californian summer, with the greens and palm trees representing Acapulco.
Photograph by Raandoom, captured during the live Antonio Marras SS25 show at Milan Fashion Week, featuring the collection inspired by Anna Maria Pierangeli’s iconic style.
When we take a closer look at the details of the collection, we see a wide array of ruffles, sequins, and bows, all adding dimension and playfulness to the overlapping patterns. The collection maintained alluring, feminine silhouettes that beautifully contoured the female form, each paired with unexpected accessories. The theme of ‘opposites attract’ was prominent throughout the whole collection—highlighting the dynamic, painful, and unstable life of Pierangeli, masked behind the façade of glamour.
The designer played with and challenged fabrics in unconventional ways. Lightweight silk was used for gowns, leather co-ord sets, raffia treated and worn as knitwear, and all of these were accompanied by sage greens, pale blues, deep burgundies. Overlapping patterns created narratives and depicted personal conflict, all while taking the form of classic hourglass silhouettes with sweetheart necklines.
Marras’ SS25 collection masterfully captured the essence of the ‘50s and the hidden complexities of old Hollywood. Through his designs, Marras told a captivating story full of intrigue and a powerful aura. Each of the 85 looks communicated a story of personal turmoil. With the thoughtful pairing of unconventional styles and accessories, we were presented with an eclectic blend that was both classic and timeless, yet modern and fresh.
