Behind the Bows
A black silk dress adorned with silk bows, from which the slip with art deco embroidery peeks out, paired with military boots. We could describe the recent Prada fashion show under the careful creative direction of Miuccia and Raf Simons in this way, but it wouldn't be enough. A deeper reading is necessary to fully catch and understand the richness of the references present in the collection.
The Prada collection is one of those where you can't fully understand unless you know what's behind it. The numerous bows present in the collection are not just a replication of a trend; they conceal a profound significance. The bow is indeed the trendy element of the moment, which has been propelled by brands like Simone Rocha, eventually becoming a social symbol embraced by the masses, symbolizing youthfulness and the rejection of adulthood. This is precisely the value with which it has been used within the collection. The bow is also the element that supports the lining skirt, constructed like an apron. Another interesting element is all the tailored suits. They appear finished at the front but, in reality, are not completed at the back, revealing only the lining. This theme also ties into Prada's previous men's collection, which was held in the same venue with the same set. The unfinished tailored suits represent the constraints of professional life and the desire for greater contact with nature and the outside world.
The collection also reflects on the contemporary situation, with a clear reference to the film “The Zone of Interest”, recently released in cinemas. The film tells the story of a family living next to the Auschwitz concentration camp, leading a seemingly tranquil life while next door, a profoundly painful chapter of history is unfolding. In this collection, history is used to understand what the present holds and what the future might entail. Indeed, there are numerous references to clothing from the 1940s, not only in terms of military uniforms but also in the sartorial rigor and the choice of silk lingerie. There is also a strong reference to the 1960s, where the bow becomes an ornamental element along with fur trimmings and flock applications. Even the leather bombers tell a story, that of the Prada brand. The "P" and the number 13 symbolize Prada 1913, the year of the brand's foundation, initially associated with the world of leather goods. The reflection on nylon garments is also very interesting, as upon closer examination, they too tell a story linked to the past. Nylon has become part of Prada's heritage for many years. Invented in 1935, due to the historical period, it was immediately used in military applications. With the outbreak of World War II, almost the entire production of nylon was reserved for military equipment. Therefore, the use of this material in the collection is not accidental; rather, it aims to reflect on our historical past and the importance of reinterpreting the past for the present and future. Of course, this is an extremely complex collection that aims to actively reflect on the social and political themes we are currently experiencing.
