All Dolled Up
Bora Aksu’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection continues the centuries old tradition of marrying fashion and dolls.
Models backstage at the Bora Aksu show for London Fashion Week photographed by Jason L. Evans via Instagram. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Anyone lucky enough to receive one of the lacy illustrated invitations to Bora Aksu’s London Fashion Week show was met with a stunningly eclectic collection. The model’s cheeks, all stained a bright rosy red, gave the appearance of dolls being dressed by an imaginative young fashionista. This illusion is heightened by the coordination of colors and patterns within a single look, and the motifs shared across the collection. In fact, the designer's studio is “lined with cracked china dolls,” which Aksu collects as he told Daniel Rodgers in a Vogue interview last week. It appears Aksu got his money’s worth, as the dolls act as both decoration and muse.
From left to right, Looks 20, Look 21, Look 18, and Look 13 via Instagram. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The styling of these pieces –outfits seeming to engulf the models in some cases–heightens the doll-like appearance of the collection. Additionally, the carefully coordinated accessories, such as a matching navy cape for monochrome navy ensemble, are reminiscent of the extra items in the box of a Madame Alexander or American Girl doll to fully bring the toy to life. The repeated uses of layered petticoats, veiled headpieces, or accented piping down the straight lines of blazers all make it clear that each piece is part of a greater idea, while keeping each ensemble unique.
Dolls have long been part of the fashion industry, playing the part of model, sales representative, and art exhibition. From 14th century French Pandoras to the ever-evolving Barbies of today, dolls have been used to both advertise and influence fashion trends. Some designers would even make miniatures of their collections to send overseas for buyers who were unable to make the crossing to see the gowns in person. In fact, one of history's most significant displays of high fashion was the “Théâtre de la Mode”, a celebration and comeback of French culture and fashion after years of being occupied by invading German forces.
Dolls modeling the latest 1940s fashions for the Theatre de la Mode via The MaryHill Museum. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
At the end of the day, dolls are meant to be played with, and it is clear Aksu had play and whimsy in mind with this collection. The frilly skirts and dramatic capes demand to be twirled in. The statement sleeves beg to flutter behind while wearers run through the wind. And of course, who doesn’t love a good bow? Whether they’re looking to recreate the full ensemble, or simply add an element of that playfulness to their own looks, it is without a doubt that buyers will scramble to collect this collection.
Close up shots by Lowri Cooper via Instagram. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
