Willy Chavarria AW25

Willy Chavarria successfully debuted his first menswear collection the American Episcopal Cathedral at Paris Fashion Week after several years of showing at New York Fashion Week. “Tarantula” is a celebration of Chavarria’s Chicano roots in the Los Angeles community he grew up in.

A model wears an oversized velvet green suit at Willy Chavarria’s Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway for his debut at Paris Fashion Week. The show followed Chavarria’s previous episcopal themes while being held in the American Episcopal Cathedral. Courtesy of Willy Chavarria and made available via Dazed. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Over the top velvet. Upscale athleisure. Accentuated collars. Accessorized keys. Willy Chavarria’s Paris Fashion Week debut was a blend of tasteful luxury and edgy streetwear in a stunning nod to his Mexican-American roots and his history as a working class family in San Joaquin Valley, California. His Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection pays tribute to Cholo traditions with takes on hip-hop and Chicano culture in an elevated showing of tailored suits, oversized silhouettes and refined Italian fabrics. Chavarria makes a bold statement on his debut in fashion’s capital, disregarding the Parisian style and opting for full Americana rooted in the United States’ backbone: immigrant workers. The show itself was set against the inside of the American Episcopal Cathedral with live performances by singers Dorian Wood and J Balvin to honor the brand’s 10th anniversary.

Chavarria proves there’s room to embrace the romanticism of opulent elegance with the grittiness of street culture. The first looks of the night embrace traditionally tailored menswear reminiscent of the casual style embodied by immigrant farmers, with elongated ‘70s collars and Western hats paired with cargos and keychains holding gold keys. Plush velvet blazers and exaggerated, red floral corsages adorned hats and breast pockets to draw attention to the little details common across various pieces. Rosaries decorated a few of the models’ hands or necks in an ode to Chavarria’s past history of showing in a papal setting, embracing the current aesthetic of the dark, yet soothing environment of the episcopal. There’s an emphasis on structured shoulders on the blazers yet subtlety on the cinched waistlines on the few womenswear pieces intermixed in the collection. 

Models walk the runway in a variety of Chicano-inspired pieces for Willy Chavarria Autumn/Winter 2025 in the American Episcopal Cathedral for Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Willy Chavarria and made available via Dazed. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

While menswear was the main character, the select womenswear offered chic detail every now and then. Model Paloma Elsesser walked the runway in a structured maroon mini peplum dress while American DJ Honey Dijon featured in an all red denim jacket and skirt set. Religious aspects were explored as seen in a red shirt emblazoned with ‘diablo’. ‘60s style bouffants and sheer tights with heels combos littered the runway in subtle hints to the impact of grunge in street culture.

Plaid made a prominent statement throughout the collection as tribute to the pattern heavily featured in Chicano streetwear. The Western influence is engraved throughout the collection with a selection of tied bandanas, baggy denim and plaid button downs. Chavarria took on different variations of the bomber jacket during the middle of the show, with models wearing oversized bombers or cropped bombers designed in trench style. Heavily tattooed and muscular male models wore Chavarria’s signature athletic shorts with his Chavarria logo stitched into the waistband. While some embraced the jacket and no shirt look with heavy leather moto jackets, others walked the runway bare chested with the shorts and adidas combination taking the lead role. 

Models walk the runway in both womens and menswear in bright colored pieces for Willy Chavarria Autumn/Winter 2025 in the American Episcopal Cathedral for Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Willy Chavarria and made available via Dazed. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

However, it was the jewel toned crushed velvet coats that emerged as the star of Chavarria’s collection. From mustard yellow to bright green, the designer isn’t afraid to shy away from bold, in your face statements as defined by his signature tailoring. There is a distinct essence that Chavarria carries with him throughout the entirety of his collection that presents a space for the merging of his biracial heritage and queer identity. Bright colors in finer fabrics allow him to create a collection that builds upon ambiguity in his persona, embracing all sides of what defines Chavarria. 

Symbolism is prominent in all of Chavarria’s work, with careful detail constructed into every piece that comes down the runway. His clothing is symbolic of acceptance of all races and genders, providing a space for those who don’t belong to feel a sense of community in embracing their true selves. Chavarria himself walked the runway in a black crew neck reading ‘How We Love Is Who We Are’ in a partnership with Tinder and the Human Rights Campaign to elevate disadvantaged voices in the LGBTQ+ community. 

Willy Chavarria walks down the runway at the end of his menswear presentation for his Paris Fashion Week debut in a black crew neck reading ‘How We Love Is Who We Are’. Chavarria’s brand will donate sales from the crew neck to the Human Rights Campaign. Courtesy of Launchmetrics.com/Spotlight and made available via Harper’s Bazaar. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The collection comes alongside Chavarria's second collaboration with adidas in a reimagining of The Forum sneaker in six separate styles. The Forum is a combination of a combat boot combined with the famed adidas sneaker in black. Chavarria takes inspiration from an original adidas design from the 1980s, adding his iconic ‘Chavarria’ logo imprinted on some of the shoes while others feature the traditional adidas stripes and a platform heel. Chavarria’s take on sportswear and skate culture creates a flair that aligns with Adidas’ vision of creating a lasting impact within the industry through statement-defining pieces. The combination of the Chavarria x adidas partnership with Chavarria’s AW25 collections creates a high fashion line that incorporates the perfect amount of high-end luxe and casual streetwear.