Why Is She in Every Salon?

Patrick Nagel, Posing with Panther, 1983.

Have you spotted these women before? Perhaps in pictures adorning the walls of hair salons, displayed in the windows of nail salons, or even in dry cleaners? While they may seem like mere aesthetic decorations, these artworks hold greater significance than you think.

Nagel illustration as a window display at a beauty salon. Source: Warped Moon on blogspost.

The mastermind behind these captivating women is Patrick Nagel, an American artist and illustrator. Born in 1945, Nagel spent the majority of his life in Los Angeles. Starting as a graphic designer, he transitioned to become a freelance artist for corporations and magazines. Nagel gained recognition for his work in 1975, creating erotic illustrations for Playboy magazine, with one of his works featured in each issue until 1984. In 1977, Nagel partnered with Mirage Editions, a publishing company, to promote poster art. He created several illustrations for them, which were later reproduced as serigraphs (silkscreen prints) and gained attention in the art world. His mainstream breakthrough came in 1982 when the manager of Duran Duran, an English New Wave band, saw one of his illustrations in Playboy and commissioned him to create the cover art for their album Rio. This painting became one of his most famous images. During this period, Nagel was also gaining fame for his illustrations of women, particularly what became known as the “Nagel woman.”

Playboy Advisor, March 1978.

From the Playboy Porfolio series, 1989.

The “Nagel woman” epitomized the ‘ideal’ image of women during that era: slender with dark hair, fair complexion, and striking red lipstick, exuding power, mystery, and allure. Elena Millie, a curator at the Library of Congress, described them as “sophisticated and self-confident, a professional who was not afraid to be glamorous”. With a quintessential 80s band and album featuring Nagel’s illustrations, these women became an emblem of the decade, solidifying their status as 80s icons. Discussions about the primary inspiration behind Nagel’s distinctive art style often point to Japanese traditional woodblock prints or American comics. Characterized by its simplicity, Nagel refined his style gradually, stripping away details until he achieved the essence of his subjects with the fewest possible lines. His illustrations strike a delicate balance between abstraction and specificity, resembling cartoons or comics while portraying real individuals who are unique, chic, fashionable, and independent.

Commemorative #11, 1987.

Nagel’s sudden passing due to a heart attack in 1984 marked the end of his relatively brief period of artistic success. Despite his widespread presence across the United States, he never achieved household name status. However, his influence persisted long after his death. Much like Pop artists before him, Nagel helped blur the lines between art and commerce, elevating the once-popular medium of posters to an art form. Although his artworks were mass-produced as prints in the 1980s, their ubiquity may have contributed to a decrease in their perceived value over time, explaining why they adorn many salon walls.

The “Nagel Woman,” synonymous with the aesthetics of the 80s and epitomizing beauty standards of the era, became aspirational figures particularly in beauty salons. However, it is worth noting that these images may have resonated more strongly with a specific segment of the population, given their uniform complexion and body type. Despite shifts in societal beauty ideals, “Nagel women”, though faded and perhaps overlooked, continue to embody elegance and sophistication, serving as a reminder of a bygone era and the enduring legacy of an artist.

Joan Collins posing by Nagel’s ortrait of her. Source: @Joancollinsdbe on Twitter.