WHITE Milano is Looking to the Future
Taking place from September 19 to 22 during Milan Fashion Week, the concept trade show has reaffirmed its position as a leading hub for showcasing the latest in women's prêt-à-porter fashion from around the world.
The fashion industry is as fickle as ever - if not more so. In 2024, we find ourselves in an era where what’s "in" is changing faster than the time it takes to say "quiet luxury". If the past few years have taught us anything, it’s that fashion is no longer dictated solely by runways but by algorithms, memes, and the brutally democratic court of The Internet. It’s a glorious kind of chaos, but one thing appears to be clear: fashion is changing, and keeping up with its whimsical tides is becoming an increasingly challenging task.
In the ever-dramatic game of musical chairs that is the fashion industry, 2024 has seen some major shake-ups in the creative directors’ seats at top luxury houses. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele made a dramatic exit late last year, passing the torch to Sabato De Sarno, who’s been tasked with reinventing the brand’s maximalist aesthetic for a new, more "refined" era. At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell has surprised the industry by sliding into the men's creative director role, adding streetwear credibility to the classic luxury giant. Meanwhile, at Burberry, Daniel Lee is shaking up British heritage with a decidedly modern twist, attempting to balance tradition with bold innovation. These new faces bring fresh perspectives, but with expectations sky-high, all eyes are on whether these high-profile changes will redefine the legacies of these iconic brands, or merely spark more of the industry’s infamous gossip.
One of the reasons behind these high-end overhauls is that, behind the glittering facade of runway shows and glossy campaigns, the fashion industry is facing some serious financial turbulence. The post-pandemic boom has faded, leaving brands -from luxury giants to fast fashion juggernauts- struggling with rising costs, supply chain headaches, and shifting consumer behavior. Inflation and fluctuating global economies have dampened discretionary spending, forcing even the most iconic brands to rethink their strategies. So within the boundaries of this restrictive context, for new names attempting to break into the fashion world, the runway has become more of a minefield than a catwalk. Many emerging designers face the impossible task of balancing creative vision with business pragmatism while maintaining their vision. But one event is coming to their rescue: WHITE Milano.
In the crowded landscape of fashion trade shows and fairs, WHITE Milano | Sign of the Times stands as a beacon of innovation, creativity, and boundary-pushing style. Founded by Massimiliano Bizzi and Brenda Bellei in 2002, WHITE Milano has become the reference platform for international womenswear in Italy, taking place during the Milan Fashion Week in the heart of Tortona Fashion District - specifically at Super Studio Più and BASE Milano. If you’re seeking for a glimpse of what’s next in fashion, WHITE is the place to be.
Some outfit details from WHITE Milano | Sign of the Times, courtesy of WHITE Milano’s press office.
With its forward-thinking vision focused on breaking down barriers and fostering communication between the market and creative entities worldwide, the event has consistently provided industry players with a curated selection of brands. Known for its commitment to emerging designers, WHITE spotlights experimental talents who challenge the norms of traditional fashion. However, don’t mistake WHITE for an underground niche; it also serves as a stage for established luxury maisons looking to connect with the next generation of tastemakers.
This blend of experimental edge and high fashion gives WHITE its magnetic pull, attracting buyers, editors and industry operators from across the globe.
The September 2024 edition of WHITE, which ran from 19 to 22, has just concluded, showcasing new projects, dazzling collaborations and, of course, previews of the Spring/Summer 2025 collections from over 300 brands. This edition was proof that if there is one thing WHITE knows how to do better than anyone else, it is to turn creative inspiration into entrepreneurial magic.
For several seasons, WHITE has been celebrating creativity with strategic scouting, aimed at shaking up the market and demonstrating that yes, it is still possible to dare. The mission? To whet the appetite of buyers by proposing research-driven brands that embody fresh and avant-garde stylistic codes.
The “concept show”, as it’s known, offers a unique showcase to a selected group of creatives: the Secret Rooms project. Conceived as a platform for emerging designers, this initiative goes beyond the usual trade show formula, offering an exclusive opportunity for fresh talents to truly shine, allowing them to engage directly with buyers and insiders. This year’s standouts included YANGKEHAN, rooted in oriental aesthetics with draped silk masterpieces, and MIAORAN, whose SS25 collection La Tempesta evoked misty seashores with macramé and reworked fabric scraps. Berlin’s PROTOTYPE: AM brought a rebellious twist to corporate wear, while YID’PHROGMA celebrated Tibetan artistry. Lastly, eco-friendly brand CAVIA transformed vintage trousseaus into garments that honor memory and sustainability.
Afrigarde jewelry brand, exposed at WHITE Milano | Sign of the Times, courtesy of WHITE Milano’s press office.
In this latest edition, WHITE introduced one of its most exciting new features as well: the debut collaboration with Istituto Marangoni for the inaugural I’M TALENT SHOWROOM. This initiative aims to provide tangible commercial support to the brightest stars emerging from the prestigious fashion school, giving them a platform to elevate their commercial ventures. Among the names to watch are UNHIDDEN by Victoria Jenkins, SANDRA MANSOUR, PRONOUNCE co-founded by Jun Zhou, MARCO VINCI, and ASCEND BEYOND by Emanuele Abbondanza.
In September, WHITE not only showcased the talents of the next generation of trailblazers, but also pushed the boundaries of the industry with its ExpoWHITE project. This initiative bridges markets and creative minds from across the world, reshaping the geography of fashion. It attracted talents from countries including Spain, Armenia, South Africa, South Korea, Brazil, and Latin America. ExpoWHITE’s global appeal is paving the way for expansion, with exciting developments in Middle Eastern markets like Riyadh and the Red Sea, where fashion opportunities are flourishing. Among this edition’s highlights, Spanish designers were featured in collaboration with ICEX España Exportación e Inversiones, a partnership that’s been strong since 2017. Armenia also made a significant impact, thanks to the Fashion & Design Chamber of Armenia, which presented 10 brands. Meanwhile South Korea took the spotlight with Kfashion82 - the B2B platform backed by the esteemed department store SHINSEGAE.
Attending WHITE Milano is about much more than just the collections; the experience itself is crucial. With a carefully crafted ambiance that feels more like a cutting-edge art exhibition than a traditional trade fair. Every corner of the event is specifically designed to complement and complement the collections on display, aligning with each edition’s creative theme. The raw, urban aesthetic of the space mirrors the event’s experimental spirit, making it the perfect home for such a forward-thinking event.
As WHITE Milano continues to evolve, one thing is clear: the event is a catalyst for change. With its commitment to sustainability, support for emerging talents and its vow to direct its gaze towards the future, the trade show is poised to lead the way in the forthcoming transformation of the fashion world. Its ability to constantly adapt and reinvent itself truly makes it a Sign of the Times.
