Uncredited Influences
Photographed by Ashish Shah, Vogue India, 2022.
Imagine you’re sitting, scrolling through TikTok with a cup of chai in your hand, a piece of melted rusk cake soaking in it. Your gold bangles glint in the light, and your khussey are by your side. A fashion creator catches your attention as she talks about her latest find—Scandinavian shawls. Being interested in fashion, you keep watching to understand what makes these shawls Scandinavian.
As she shows examples, you’re surprised to see that the "Scandinavian" shawl she’s talking about looks just like the dupatta draped around your neck—something you’ve worn for as long as you can remember. You look around and notice your mother has one on, as does her mother, and your sisters and cousins. It’s clear that this piece of your cultural heritage is being rebranded and appreciated under a different name.
“A dupatta is a long, multi-purpose scarf that is essential to many South Asian women's suits and matches the woman's garments.” (Minhas et al., 2016; p. 1458)
This so-called Scandinavian shawl sparked an enlightening discourse online about the complex boundaries between cultural appropriation and appreciation. Growing up South Asian, I'm familiar with the allure of our vibrant traditions and customs, and I don't blame others for wanting to participate. The intricate mehndi, the regal jewelry, the extravagant outfits—I'd want to wear them too. But in all my life, I'd never seen our cultural practices being described as "very European." I knew from an unfortunate young age that someone who looks like me wouldn’t normally be considered as “very European,” and I eventually learned to accept that I’m different. So why are my cultural practices being described as something that once rejected us?
I have no problem with people taking part in our customs, but it becomes alarming when these customs are selectively appropriated with no regard to their cultural context, and rebranded as trendy or fashionable only when adopted by those outside of the culture. This form of cherry-picking not only diminishes the cultural significance of our practices but also erases the historical and social contexts from which they came. When certain elements of our culture are plucked out and presented as trendy or fashionable without acknowledging their roots, it whitewashes our history and perpetuates a one-dimensional, distorted view of our heritage. Therefore, it is essential to preserve the integrity and authenticity of our cultural practices by ensuring they are understood, appreciated, and celebrated in their entirety, including their historical and social beginnings. Wearing South Asian pieces, like a dupatta, acts as a method of preserving the rich heritage and culture (Kapoor, 2020; p. 79).
Lastly, it is crucial to remember that these aspects of South Asian culture are not just trendy because they've been infiltrated by whiteness; they hold inherent value because they are integral parts of our shared and rich cultural heritage. Thick eyebrows, oiling hair, applying mehndi, using kajol, turmeric face masks, and countless other practices are deeply rooted in our traditions and identities. They carry centuries of significance, symbolism, and communal understanding (Werbner, 2014). These practices are not commodities to be appropriated or rebranded—they are expressions of our cultural pride, resilience, and beauty. Although academic Rogers (2006) writes that cultural appropriation is “inescapable when cultures come into contact” (p. 474), as South Asians, it's crucial to reclaim and celebrate these elements of our heritage, not just as trends, but as essential parts of who we are.
