Tremaine Emory
photography by Arthur Jafa via i-D, The Darker Issuem, No. 365, Winter 2021.
Tremaine Emory, founder of the revolutionary “streetwear” brand Denim Tears, a brand reflecting the cultural implications across the African diaspora, stepped down from his position as the first creative director of Supreme last year. He had served in the role since 2022 and had contributed significantly to the creation of Supreme's newfound creative direction, looking to push the boundaries of how art correlates with fashion and commerce. However, Emory explicitly highlighted the presence of systematic racism within Supreme's corporate framework, causing his sudden departure from the brand. He further pointed out the lack of effective communication regarding the termination of his collaboration with the esteemed Black American artist Arthur Jafa. Expressing his interest in placing Jafa’s Ex-Slave Gordon, based on a photograph originating from the 19th century, was employed as a means to showcase the inhumane nature of slavery and garner backing for the Union's endeavors in the Civil War, on Supreme merchandise. Questions arose about what an essential skateboard brand would gain from putting a beaten enslaved person as its artistic focus, knowing it could risk its popularity but gain respect from its young consumers due to cultural misunderstanding and ignorance. This situation illustrates the conflict between Emory and his interpretation of how far fashion and clothing can present themselves as art and influence.
Raised in Jamaica, Queens, New York, and born in Atlanta, Georgia, Emory has established himself as a prominent figure in fashion. He subsequently held various positions in the retail industry for Marc Jacobs, as he described to Touré in September on the Touré Show podcast, the only time he possessed a LinkedIn account and formal resume. In 2010, Emory relocated to London and established the versatile creative venture No Vacancy Inn alongside his trusted partner, Ade ‘Acyde’ Odunlami, engaging in fashion, art, music, and nightlife. Following that, he joined Stüssy, assuming the role of art director-at-large, and eventually founded Denim Tears in 2019, harnessing the potent narratives of the Black experience. Emory has always prioritized the exchange of thought-provoking concepts, particularly concerning the history and culture of the Black community. Known for his distinct voice and unique perspective, he has mastered the art of conveying his vision through conceptual brand identity, advocating for diversity and creative autonomy. Emory's work captured the attention of Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Homme. In 2022, Emory and Jones collaborated on the Dior Tears capsule collection, delving into a vast visual vocabulary that explored the artistic and cultural sensibilities of Black writers, musicians, artists, and other creatives of various perspectives, merging the interconnectedness of “American archetypal with French high savoir-faire.” This collaboration was accompanied by layers of photographic, visual, written, and musical references and ideas, resulting in a collection infused with elements of jazz, Rasta, workwear, and Ivy League casualwear, with additions of tonal and variations of colors and neutral aspects.
Tremaine EmoryCourtesy of Levi’s
The suitability of Emory’s ability to serve as a creative leader for Supreme was unquestionable, as he is the marker of streetwear fashion, culture, and influence. Emory’s brand, Denim Tears, exemplifies genuine collaboration and innovation in what a quintessential Black brand entails. Emory demonstrated that Supreme could delve deeper into fashion through dynamic processes of nostalgic introspection and artistic partnerships. While the brand has previously showcased collaborations with various artists, Emory expressed his reservations about not being afforded the same creative freedom as those before him. Emory challenges the idea in the fashion industry of creative expression without corporate repercussions and constraints. What is in creativity if you cannot express the notions of the times, human experience, and the evolution of consciousness? As a Black American with various endeavors in the contemporary fashion landscape, what does creative autonomy look like when showcasing images of human history that still rest in the underbelly of American culture? Emory is nothing short of expressing your imagination through actual reality as he creates his symbols and incorporates dissenting vignettes of music and academic writings. Menswear has evolved into a state of continuous popularity but also competitive consumption, in comparison to his peers such as Kanye West, the late Virgil Abloh, Kim Jones, and most recently, Pharrell, the new creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton as of 2023. The fashion industry emphasizes profit over prophets, but seeking artistic validation and status is the underlying matrix of the game. Still, Emory strives to seek validation through himself, making his culture and tribute to his influences foreground his integrity and iconoclasm.
