The Goth Revival
Goth is the subculture that never died – or more precisely, perhaps, remains undead. -Catherine Spooner
Cassandra Peterson as Elvira. Photography by Catherine McGann/Getty Images.
Over the past few years, there has been a noticeable resurgence of old styles making a comeback. This resurgence could be attributed to nostalgia, amplified by social media, which has reintroduced these styles to a broader audience. Naturally, this trend has also affected the fashion industry. We have seen the return of emo culture and Y2K fashion, among others. Now, another revival is on the horizon, and it needs no introduction: goth is back.
Goths are often portrayed as individuals donning black attire, accentuated by eyeliner, and immersing themselves in the realms of downbeat rock music, traditional mythology, sci-fi and horror films, dystopian philosophy, and gothic literature. This iconic look began to crystallize in the late ‘70s alongside the ascent of punk, propelled forward by influential bands like Siouxsie Sioux and The Banshees, The Damned, and Joy Division. Amidst the economic boom of the 1980s, goth culture emerged as a countercultural response to a mainstream society fixated on wealth and materialism. This resistance was epitomized by the quintessential goth aesthetic featuring voluminous backcombed hair and a wardrobe spanning from overcoats and drainpipe jeans to short skirts and fishnet stockings. However, it is important to acknowledge that this is not the sole aesthetic within the goth scene. As the subculture evolved, a myriad of gravity-defying styles surfaced, offering a rich tapestry of aesthetics for enthusiasts to explore. In 2024, we witness a resurgence of these trends with a fresh perspective. Catherine Spooner, professor of Literature and Culture at Lancaster University, aptly encapsulates it: “Goth is the subculture that never died – or more precisely, perhaps, remains undead.”
Siouxsie Sioux, 1981.Courtesy of Polydor Records/UK.
Certainly, the success of the Wednesday reboot has been a significant factor in the resurgence of the goth subculture. After the show aired, it seemed like everywhere you turned, stores were stocked with black dresses decorated with white collars. Additionally, the release of the new teen horror movie, Lisa Frankenstein, though not a box office hit, sparked nostalgia for ‘80s horror comedy. Its storyline, centered around a misunderstood teenage goth girl who forms a relationship with a reanimated Victorian-era corpse, perfectly aligned with the goth trend. Building on this momentum, three more reboots of cult classics like Beetlejuice, The Crow, and Nosferatu are set for release this year, further fueling the resurgence of the goth subculture.
Bill Skarsgård as Eric Draven in The Crow, 2024.
In a recent twist, Jojo Siwa surprised everyone with her unexpected rebranding, ditching her colorful, frilly style for a Kiss-inspired painted face. While this shift garnered mixed reactions online, with some expressing negativity, Siwa found support from Kiss’s Gene Simmons, who hailed her new look as “cool” and “extraordinary.” Remarkably, makeup brands are embracing this trend, marking a departure from the past when the goth scene lacked mainstream brand endorsements, at least from what I recall. The e.l.f. Cosmetics x Liquid Death collaboration, in particular, has been met with enthusiasm, with products flying off the shelves almost instantly and receiving positive reviews overall.
Jojo Siwa, 2024. Photography by Matt Winkelm Eyer/Getty Images.
Julia Fox in e.l.f. Cosmetics campaign. Photography by Michael Simon. Courtesy of e.l.f. Cosmetics x Liquid Death.
During the heyday of the goth scene in the ‘80s and ‘90s, goths often faced ostracism and rejection simply for their appreciation of a particular genre and aesthetic. While negative backlash still exists today with any trend, there is a notable shift in attitude this time around. It is refreshing to see that goth culture is being embraced with more positivity and open-mindedness, marking a departure from the past.
