Suiting Up History
The power suit, evolving from mere business wear to a symbol of empowerment and nostalgia, continues to influence fashion and professional identities. Among the styles Giorgio Armani presented in the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection, the power suit stood out as a highlight, transcending its origins to symbolize female empowerment, yet its nostalgic appeal remains ever strong.
A model walking down the runway during the Giorgio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024/2025 show. Photographed by LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT June 2024. Available via Elle Magazine © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Giorgio Armani is credited as the person who popularized the power suit for men. However, Yves St. Laurent and Donna Karan helped formulate the idea that women could wear suits. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent created "Le Smoking" Suit. In simplest terms, it was a man's tuxedo suit, but designed to fit women.
This iconic photograph by Helmut Newton for French Vogue in 1975 captures the bold elegance of Yves Saint Laurent’s "Le Smoking" tuxedo. Shot on a Parisian street, the image juxtaposes the sharp tailoring of the tuxedo with a provocative edge, redefining fashion and gender norms. Available via The Code Mag © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
During the 1960s to the '80s, the second wave of feminism was occurring. The second wave of feminism looked to examine the origins of women's oppression, their role within the family, and the nature of gender itself. Donna Karan challenged Giorgio Armani's belief that women's power suits should mirror men's power suits. Donna Karan’s power suits complemented women's figures. Furthermore, Giorgio Armani's familiarization of power suits in men's fashion came from the 1980 film American Gigolo. The power suit would go on to replace the tailored and confining Savile Row suit. Armani attained this look by removing the padding and replacing the tweed and flannel with softer fabrics. By changing the suit itself, it was Armani challenging the status quo. American Gigolo revolutionized business wear for men on a large scale across the United States. Men were inspired by Richard Gere’s character. Luckily, Giorgio Armani had prepared his first international ready-to-wear line. By the time American Gigolo had come out, his suits were accessible to this new clientele.
Princess Diana wearing a power suit to a charity event in 1988. Available via Woman and Home © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
It’s important to note that women such as Princess Diana, Nancy Reagan, and Margaret Thatcher helped popularize this suit for women. Prior to powersuits, there were pliable polyester suits in the 1970s. Power suits helped send a message. It allowed women to emerge in male-dominated spaces. Women's power suits differentiated from men's because of the double-breasted style, emphasized shoulder padding, and bold colours. By adopting the power suit which emphasized broad shoulders due to shoulder padding, it signaled strength in environments where the trait was often undervalued in women. These women needed to be recognized and respected for their contributions to their respective jobs. The power suit allowed for women to break gender roles and allowed for women to be seen as competent inside the workforce.
When mentioning the workforce and the past, it’s crucial to mention the term, YUPPIE. In 1980, the acronym YUPPIE was born in a Chicago magazine. Yuppie stood for “young urban professional” or “young upwardly-mobile professional”. This term resonated with some, however, others saw this as a pretentious term and meant one had bland taste. People also viewed this term rather as a critique on gentrification and capitalism. Yuppie’s sought out career advancement and financial success. As the 1980s progressed, many wanted a work-life balance. Yet, for some yuppies, they wanted to live lavishly and obtain material possessions. Nonetheless, the power suit was a symbol of ambition and aspiring success.
Similarly, the well-known movie, Working Girl, included the use of power suits and the film itself showcased a woman achieving career advancement. In this movie, Melanie Griffith’s character, who people believed wouldn’t be successful, due to her drastic hair and makeup, has a different style in comparison to her boss. Her boss, even though she steals her idea, is more successful. It’s fair to assume she is viewed as the more successful one because she wears a power suit. As her boss is recovering from a ski accident, she assumes her boss’s role and to do so, she must acquire a power wardrobe. The use of power suits helps symbolize the ambition and determination of Melanie Griffith’s character.
Nostalgia and fashion intertwine extensively. Revisiting past trends can give a sense of consistency in a world full of uncertainty. In addition, during times of financial stress, it can be security to revisit an old trend rather than try something new. By including a look of power for men and women, it can remind consumers why they purchased something in the first place. In the past, women bought this look to prove they were capable in the workforce. Men bought this look to exude sophistication and professionalism. Overall, the power of nostalgia and the feelings brought by nostalgia can influence purchasing habits and views on fashion as a whole. The importance of workwear and its impact on the industry is certainly one to be noted, past trends will come and go, but what will never change is the empowerment brought to women by this iconic look.
