Struggle to Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry’s story isn’t simply about an ambition to make it in fashion—it’s about resilience and redefinition in an industry that demands everything. The American-born designer went from sleeping on a friend’s floor to leading Schiaparelli, reviving it to stand alongside other prestigious Parisian houses turning it into one of the most talked-about names in couture. 

Daniel Roseberry is framed alongside his creations from the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024/25 collection. Shown are two jackets from the show that are embroidered with trompe l’œil feather tips, crafted from silk organza, and adorned with contrasting pearls at the ends. Photographed by Elliott Verdier for The New York Times. Available via The New York Times. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Schiaparelli AW22 Haute Couture. Courtesy of Schiaparelli. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

“I was thirty-three, unemployed, and sleeping on a tatami mat in my friend’s apartment when I was asked to make the proposal for Schiaparelli. And I realized that if I were to get the job, I’d be the first American-born designer ever appointed to a French couture Maison—and that was only five years ago.”

That leap of faith paid off. But as Roseberry shared, ambition hits differently when the stakes are high. “When you’re unknown, dreaming big is easy,“ he explained. When you’re at the top, taking risks feels heavier. As a creative director, he learned that “creative risks start to feel less like risks and more like a liability”, especially with a responsibility to his team. This tension between daring creativity and the reality of leading a fashion brand is at the heart of his work at Schiaparelli. Even so, Roseberry has mastered the balancing act of pushing boundaries while staying true to Schiaparelli’s surrealist roots, giving it a bold, modern edge.

Daniel Roseberry (right) and a team member oversee measurement fittings for Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection on model Candice Swanepoel (middle), who is wearing a denim halterneck corset dress with a zipper down the front. Via IG @Schiaparelli  © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Raised in Texas by a priest and an artist, Roseberry’s journey to high fashion was anything but conventional. He once even considered becoming a minister before deciding to study at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Two years in, he left to work for Thom Browne, a brand known for its distinctive tailoring. A decade at Browne’s side taught him the discipline and vision it takes to lead a brand, skills he carried that would eventually help him revive Schiaparelli.

His advice to young creatives? “Seek out a mentor.” His words were both a tribute to Browne and a reminder of the value of guidance in an industry that often feels overwhelming while testing resilience. For him, that was Thom Browne, who taught him that great design isn’t just about aesthetics, it’s about responsibility too.

In 2019, Roseberry joined Schiaparelli, making history as the first American to head a French couture house—a groundbreaking appointment. Roseberry didn’t just take on a new job, he inherited a legacy. The brand’s codes established by founder Elsa Schiaparelli were already iconic within fashion history, but he took it further, creating something personal and fresh. Using that identity as a stepping stone, he flipped the script on what luxury means today. 

Daniel Roseberry, during his creative process, is surrounded by an extensive collection of hand-drawn illustrations, inspiration, and fabric swatches that cover the floor and the boards. Photographed by Elliott Verdier for The New York Times. Available via The New York Times. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Roseberry’s success reflects his ability to balance homage with innovation, breathing new life into Schiaparelli’s legacy. Inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist spirit, he has brought a fresh edge to the brand’s iconography, intertwining avant-garde aesthetics with timeless craftsmanship. For Roseberry, true luxury is personal, rare, and a little rebellious. From jaw-dropping couture gowns to edgy ready-to-wear pieces, his work ensures luxury continues to be something rare, meaningful, and unforgettable. His designs don't chase trends, they spark interest as art pieces.

Reflecting on today’s fashion landscape, he’s vocal about how the industry often confuses popularity with desirability, diluting the magic of high fashion and the concept of luxury. For him, Schiaparelli stands as an “antidote” to this trend. He’s committed to sticking to a different game plan by keeping it small, unique, and unapologetically bold. That vision has cemented the house’s spot as a leader in modern couture.

Daniel Roseberry (right) and model Adriana Lima (left) during a fitting session for her linen shirtdress, which features a matching corset belt, for Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection. Via IG @Schiaparelli © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

He doesn’t sugarcoat the sacrifices he’s made. “Dreams are expensive,” he admitted, echoing his partner’s words from the night he left New York for Paris. Reflecting on the industry’s common sacrifices that come with work, leaving behind family, friends, and the comfort of home. But to him, Paris wasn’t just a move, it was his calling, and those sacrifices were worth it.

And in a room filled with designers, Roseberry’s message resonated. To achieve greatness in fashion, you must be prepared to face the solitude and relentless ambition that design demands. Roseberry’s words hit home for anyone who’s left their comfort zone to chase a dream, especially abroad. When he spoke about feeling honored “not just as an international designer, but more so as an American designer working internationally,” it struck a chord. It’s a feeling many of us know, the pride and pressure of staying true to where you come from while contributing to a new global creative landscape. For young creatives trying to make their mark, Roseberry’s path is more than inspiring—it’s real. His story isn’t just about making it in fashion, it’s about redefinition. And through his work, Daniel Roseberry sets a new standard.