Streetwear Digest
Fashion and the act of being fashionable are subjective, but the versatility and depth of streetwear is something we can agree is the personification of fashion. Streetwear, which refers to the style of clothing most popular in NYC in the 90s and heavily tied to hip-hop and rap culture, has now become global. Continuously evolving from its origins, streetwear sees new trends emerge almost monthly. In an industry known for high competition and demand, which streetwear brands produce the coldest pieces?
Stussy
Built in the USA, made for the world; Stussy is, and has been since forever, one of the front runners of the streetwear scene. Stussy as a brand are experts at capturing that y2k/90s vibe that has shaped fashion. By being brave in their designs and going against what is ‘expected’ of fashion, Stussy has branded themselves as the go-to brand when in need of streetwear. Stussy was founded by Shawn Stussy, from California, as a surfboard manufacturing company aligned with the surf/skate scene of California in the 80s. Stussy would handcraft specialist surfboards to suit the high physical demand of the sport and hand write his graffiti-style signature in black marker on the base of the boards. Said signature is now one of the most recognizable logos in the fashion world, especially in the case of streetwear. After years of operating his own Laguna Beach surf store, Stussy rode the waves to a new destination; fashion. With business partner Frank Sinatra Jr., Stussy began printing his iconic graffiti-esque signature onto tees firstly… but then hats, jackets, and other garments that were becoming increasingly popular, in line with the emerging ‘streetwear’ prospect. In fact, Stussy was one of the first ever brands to produce apparel like varsity jackets and caps purely for fashion rather than for sports teams, which is evidence that even from the start, Stussy was a brand to be reckoned with. By the 90s, Stussy as a clothing label had already expanded to multiple stores, including their flagship store in Soho, NY, and the infamous LA South La Brea Avenue store.
From there, Stussy as a clothing brand turned the fashion universe on its head for its bold additions to society through clothing. Stussy has always sold distinctive pieces with handwritten graphics and creative graphic art, which is what set them apart from other brands. They have produced a range of items of high quality and unique design, that: set them apart from other streetwear brands to secure them as one of the best, and bring new trends to the streetwear scope. Their clothing, still, typically features graphic art such as dice and the famous black 8 ball, which is probably Stussy's most iconic symbol. It can be seen on a plethora (most) of their products, from hoodies and tees to candles. The 8 ball’s introduction in the 80s was a pivotal moment for the success of Stussy’s fashion breakthrough and is now one of their most easily recognizable designs. It gives garments an extra creative flair and pioneered Stussy in the 90s hip-hop/streetwear fashion scene. In American pool, the 8 ball decides the match. You either put the black ball last and win, or put it before anything else and lose. It’s a big part of American culture and reminds us of Stussy’s authentic Californian roots. It also symbolizes good luck and fortune so could be used to highlight the brand's focus and output into the fashion community, yet the 8 ball has numerous meanings so could have more mysterious or alternative undertones. The 8 ball graphic is something exclusive to Stussy; a design that you see on a tee or hoodie and instantly think: Stussy. This means it doesn’t just make for a cold outfit but an expert and interesting marketing tool. When the Stussy London store opened in 2018, the ball was used in the marketing campaign, in posters of it rolling through iconic spots in London.
The iconic Stussy 8 ball taking over the London underground, ahead of the Soho store opening. Available via Collater.al © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The 8 ball brings a modern and different vibe to Stussy’s clothing - it can be styled with anything as it is black and white and it forms a junction with luxury, high-quality clothing and current fashion trends. That, with the aid of effective ad campaigns through font and graphics that further capture the 90s streetwear vibe, is what makes Stussy stand out in the 90s/y2k fashion scope. The 8 ball addition is one of their best outputs to fashion. It’s drippy af.
Another stand-out aspect of Stussy is their ability to heighten other brands through collaborations, which are very common for streetwear as they generate hype and are usually very sought after. Nike x Stussy was of course no exception. They first began working together in 2000 with their first drop being a pair of Nike Air Huarache LE. It was released in two colorways and Nike and Stussy began a collaboration from there, uniquely blending sportswear including shoes actually made for skating with streetwear and style. Nike is easily the biggest streetwear/sportswear brand and has been since their arrival on the scene, basically, so for them to collaborate with Stussy, which was a much smaller brand in 2000, highlights their belief in Stussy. Especially since this was Nike’s first-ever collaboration with a clothing brand. Of course, it had to be Stussy. Since their initial rendezvous, Nike and Stussy have released tracksuits, typically including oversized apparel like tracksuits, trendy yet minimalistic shoes, and of course, the famous 8 ball but Nike-ified. New Stussy drops sell out quickly, and for some of their most sought-after pieces, you have to rely on resellers and your own personal competitiveness levels. They are very high quality and heavily endorsed in the media. Stussy is one of the best in the streetwear game, and will probably continue to be extremely popular, of course.
Travis Scott in a Stussy x Nike t-shirt, photo credits to @rayscorruptedmind on insta. Available via pause mag © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
2. Corteiz
Another streetwear brand that has the community in a chokehold is UK brand Corteiz. Corteiz is a pretty new addition, founded in 2017, to the streetwear climate. But, with unique marketing and community, Corteiz has set its mark in the fashion industry and will only skyrocket from here, building a lasting legacy. The brand, aka Corteiz Rule the World, or CRTZRTW, is owned by Clinton Ogbenna, a British-Nigerian entrepreneur based in London. He started the brand out of his home as a uni student and has since constructed an empire. Professionally, he's known as Clint419 or simply Clint. He has used expert and unique marketing techniques to build an exclusive disposition for the brand since the beginning to bond with customers and hone loyalty both ways, allowing the Cortez community to feel quite close. Clients know that only those who are genuinely interested in the brand to its core can shop the latest products, setting Corteiz apart from other big brands. Alas, CRTZ has a different vibe to other streetwear brands, personally, and you can tell that a lot of genuine work and care has gone into the brand, which makes it a brand worth supporting, not just for drip. One reason for this is unlike other brands, Clint has nurtured the success of his clothing brand without the use of paid promotions, gifting apparel, or crazy ad campaigns. This means that the celebrities that have been pictured in his designs, including rap artists Jorja Smith and Stormzy, genuinely support the brand and have actually shopped via the website, of their own accord. Something about this makes the brand feel so authentic and highlights its genuinely good quality products and cold designs. Clint’s approach to marketing is particularly impressive - Corteiz drops are random and feature high-demand streetwear pieces like t-shirts, joggers, cargos, etc., but are extremely limited. New collections can only be unlocked on the official Corteiz website via a password on certain days/at certain times, building anticipation and high demand. Followers need to be in check to ensure satisfaction, as Clint generally shares the passwords via his social media, in the past with an Insta story or tweet. Hence, only true supporters who keep up with Corteiz’ social media can cop the brand’s newest arrivals, allowing Clint to build a loyal customer base. Some other brands have incorporated the password element to their website as well, and this combined with other clever ideas is what pulls Corteiz ahead. That being said, each collection and drop is different, so next time it might not be a password, but something else.
The brand was originally created out of Clint’s bedroom in London, and now has amassed global success: being worn by big names, being featured in Vogue, collaborating with Nike, sell-out after sell-out on drops. Corteiz produces mainly clothing, including tracksuits, cargos, and t-shirts as well as accessories like hats, and famously, a pair of Nike Air Max 95s in a range of colorways. Of course, a clothing brand is nothing without the clothing; even without inventive marketing ploys, Corteiz is a frontrunner in the streetwear world. In particular, vetements featuring the signature Alcatraz Island logo are some of their bestselling pieces, and something you immediately associate with Corteiz, much like Stussy and the 8 ball. Such products, including cargos, jackets, joggers, and gilets have been captured in music videos and photos with celebrities - predominantly UK rappers like Central Cee and Dave. This is interesting and shows the extensive success of Corteiz because, as mentioned earlier, Clint never sends clothing to celebrities to ‘promote’ them, so the support of those in the music industry is a result of pure organic growth - they support Corteiz because they produce good quality, trendy items.
Similarly to other streetwear corporations, Corteiz has collabed with other fashion brands with the same style to produce some of their most popular items, most famously: Nike. The Nike x Corteiz collection has always been notably famous, especially the Air Max 95s of 2023 which are available on reselling sites like GOAT for hundreds. Corteiz disagrees with reselling, another reason for the exclusivity of the brand, but this is hard to avoid especially in the case of successful collabs like in the case or Nike x Corteiz or iconic pieces like the bolo puffer. Aside from the Air Max, together Nike and Corteiz have released other very successful lines including tracksuits, t-shirts, and accessories. These are exclusive pieces, with a tracksuit jacket selling for £249.99 at release, for example.
Nike x Corteiz Air Max 95s in Gutta Green, via @CRTZ.RTW on Insta. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Especially considering the brand was built from Clint’s home in London, Cortez is very successful and adding to the appreciation for streetwear in the fashion community. It brings a new wave of streetwear to the younger generation, allowing a whole generation to explore creativity through fashion. Corteiz rules the world…what’s next?
3. A Bathing Ape
A third iconic streetwear fashion giant is A Bathing Ape. BAPE, A Bathing Ape, is a streetwear powerhouse founded by Nigo in 1993. Nigo is a Japanese fashion designer, artist, and DJ, who has also earned success for other huge brands, including Kenzo (as current artistic director), as well as Louis Vuitton, Ice Cream, and Billionaire Boys Club (all alongside Pharrell Williams who is also very well known in the streetwear scope). No one does fashion like Nigo, personally. He has a very strong eye for creativity, has a unique ability to blend trends with new inventions to bring something refreshing to the runway every time. His contributions to streetwear are some of the best in the world. He first founded BAPE in Japan, but after global popularity, many stores were opened worldwide, including one in Soho, London (for all the UK streetwear fanatics). BAPE made a breakthrough in America in particular when Nigo and Pharrell began working together…Pharrell visited Nigo’s atelier in Japan when looking for a recording studio, and Nigo had wanted to expand his brand to the US, so it was meant to be. Pharrell has spoken about his love for Nigo and BAPE, and their experiences working together in a YouTube video with Complex, which featured some of BAPE’s iconic sneakers.
Over time, BAPE kept releasing revolutionary garments that were something never seen before. Even when taking inspiration from Nike’s Air Force 1, BAPE’s shoes are so innovative, with a range of colorways and details, as Pharrell mentions. Aside from shoes, A Bathing Ape was - and still is - very well known for the iconic shark hoodie, and the camo prints of the 90s; one of the first official streetwear trends. Rappers like The Notorious B.I.G were pictured in BAPE, which really accelerated the attention of such intricate designs. Although the label is now under new ownership, and Nigo has stepped down, BAPE is still extremely popular and has produced some very well-received contributions to streetwear. They use extremely high-quality materials and constantly produce interesting and revolutionary collections, making them stand out against other streetwear brands, honing in on their ‘Fearless Self-Expression’ motto. Recently, they collaborated with KidSuper, an American fashion designer and owner of his own streetwear brand with the same name. The collection walked Paris Fashion Week, bringing streetwear to high fashion scenes to blur the lines between luxury and streetwear because they can be synonymous.
Streetwear is becoming increasingly more popular, with the 90s/00s baggy jeans, jerseys, tracksuits, and colorful sneakers being most sought after. There are so many revolutionary brands, all of which offer something different to streetwear. Streetwear is an art form and a reminder that fashion doesn't have to be so serious.
