Sheguang Hu

Fashion intertwines seamlessly with performance art in an avant-garde fusion, a fitting descriptor for the creations of the globally acclaimed designer Sheguang Hu.

Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week S/S 2014. Xinhua/Cehn Jianli

This Chinese-Dutch visionary's portfolio is a captivating blend of jaw-dropping, mesmerizing, and slightly nightmarish pieces. Hu's unique aesthetic concept consistently shakes up the dynamic landscape of the ever-evolving fashion realm. It's time to delve deeper into the world of Sheguang Hu. His artistic identity defies categorization, intentionally avoiding conformity. Hu skillfully weaves together elements from diverse art forms, genres, mediums, styles, and movements, transforming his fashion presentations and designs into breathtaking performances. Above all, he takes immense pride in showcasing his heritage through his garments. By seamlessly integrating Chinese ethnic-cultural and historical elements into his work, Hu creates works that pay homage to his roots. His accomplishments are remarkable and numerous. Currently, he serves as the Sino-US Cultural Exchange Ambassador, Chinese and English Language Exchange Ambassador, Dutch Royal Dress Designer, and Director of Cultural Media at the Dutch Embassy. Additionally, he holds the position of Vice Chairman of the Credit Engineering Working Committee at the Chinese National Unity and Progress Association, Chief Designer at the Design Center of the China Textile Association, Director at the China Designers Association, and Executive Chairman of the "Belt and Road National Cultural and Creative Union." In addition to these roles, he has received accolades such as the New Zealand Performance Art Award, Asian Outstanding Fashion Behavior Artist, Most Popular Beauty Designer, and Style Star Award, among many others. Notably, he was also a judge and art director for Miss World and Miss China, overseeing the design and provision of clothing for all contestants. Simultaneously, he maintains a professorship and actively participates in numerous fashion festivals and weeks worldwide.

Hu has been active in the fashion industry for decades, although with limited attention from the Western audience. However, his work gained widespread media recognition following the bold haute couture collection showcased at Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week S/S 2014 in Beijing, themed "Sting." In explaining his inspiration, Hu remarked that modern life has lost its flavor, with people experiencing a sense of emptiness despite material abundance. He identified a prevailing "numbness" that renders individuals zombie-like, devoid of both happiness and pain. To address this societal malaise, Hu's collection sought to provoke strong emotions, even if it meant inflicting piercing pain. The collection featured models with pallid skin adorned solely in black garments, creating a statuesque or zombie-like appearance. Some wore spiked metal wire face masks and intimidating demonic headdresses, crafting a visually striking portrayal of emptiness, pain, and despair. Despite the limited coverage of the show, it undeniably marked a turning point in Hu's career. The "Sheguang Hu Haute Couture" show at 2017 China Fashion Week left attendees in awe with its stunning and unconventional collection. One observer described the front-row experience as reminiscent of a horror film rather than a typical catwalk event. Hu's creations featured a captivating array of red-themed ensembles, incorporating unsettling elements such as a model holding dolls seemingly covered in blood, horned figures, and garments adorned with numerous prosthetic hands. One standout moment involved a model donning a full-length red gown, complemented by a fake mask and oversized devil horns. Another eerie pairing featured two models, one wearing a top resembling a straitjacket that bound her arms while fake hands extended from their shoulders, creating a surreal and haunting image. Another attention-grabbing piece was a PVC dress with a large flower on the shoulder, accompanied by a matching face mask covering the model's entire face with strategically placed slits for the eyes and mouth. Masks played a prominent role in the collection, with one model sporting a full-face mask featuring two enormous ears on the sides, resembling a large bow. The overall collection showcased Hu's penchant for pushing boundaries and creating a visually arresting experience on the runway.

Finally, let's delve into the Sheguang Hu National Fashion Tour, which debuted in Wuhan at the Red T Art District in 2021. Hu, drawing inspiration from his heritage, proudly showcased one hundred Chinese women, including China's top supermodels and his team of female models, all adorned in customized qipao. This fashion extravaganza serves as a cultural gift, not only showcasing the beauty of traditional Chinese culture but also emphasizing the style of Chinese women in the contemporary world. Hu expressed, "The fashion industry is a microcosm of social development. I hope to depict the prosperity and rise of China through 100 pieces of qipao. Chinese women are self-motivated and confident, narrating their stories in diverse ways." The patterns on the fabric incorporated elements of China's intangible cultural heritage, including Beijing embroidery, Miao embroidery, Su embroidery, and jacquard. Various fabrics like chiffon, silk, imitation fur, and bamboo fiber demonstrated the ingenuity of Chinese craftsmanship. Each model graced the runway in a unique silhouette and ethnic headwear. Breaking convention, the models, many of whom are members of the Communist Party of China, donned red qipao adorned with two red five-pointed stars, expressing their patriotic love. Notably, the show featured non-professional models, adding a distinctive touch to the runway. Following the initial showcase in Wuhan, the fashion tour continued to captivate audiences in other Chinese cities, including Beijing, Erdos, Urumqi, Wuxi, and Dingxi.