Seán McGirr
Seán McGirr for Vogue Business. Photo by Pierre-Ange Carlotti.
In October 2023, Seán McGirr assumed the role of Creative Director at Alexander McQueen, succeeding Sarah Burton. Hailing from Dublin and now based in London, McGirr recently unveiled the latest collection at Paris Fashion Week. To the surprise of many, the debut garnered mixed reviews.
His biography is truly impressive, showcasing a rapid ascent in the fashion world. McGirr earned his MA in Fashion from Central Saint Martins in 2014 and quickly made his mark, starting at Burberry and Vogue Hommes Japan. He then moved on to work with Uniqlo in Tokyo and Paris before being appointed Women's Designer at Dries Van Noten in Antwerp in 2018. By 2020, he was already contributing to JW Anderson before ultimately landing the prestigious role of Creative Director at Alexander McQueen in October 2023. Becoming the Creative Director of a renowned brand like Alexander McQueen is undoubtedly a remarkable achievement. However, despite high expectations, his debut show did not receive the anticipated level of acclaim.
McGirr is the first designer to lead the brand with no particular connection to it, having never worked with the designer. This lack of connection became apparent in his approach. He enthusiastically discussed McQueen’s spring 1995 collection, The Birds: “What I like about it is that it’s all very simple, but it’s slightly twisted. It’s a jacket with a more stacked shoulder, or the lapel goes up a little too high. It’s the idea of making beautiful tailoring and then running a tire over it to make something new. Taking something and twisting it and crushing it and seeing what happens.” What some critics have noted is that it had everything the brand stood for and what defined its name. However, as described by The New York Times, it was likened to “McQueen, the TikTok dance version”—vivid and dynamic, yet lacking in depth.
McGirr’s debut collection featured sharp tailoring adorned with intricate details such as fragmented jet pieces and shearling vests. Oversized sweaters were coupled with leather trousers, and a tank dress mirrored smashed glass, apparently drawing inspiration from McGirr’s phone screen. Molded steel mini dresses and hoof-like shoes paid homage to McQueen’s signature style. However, despite these avant-garde touches, the collection failed to captivate with its ability to inspire a challenge. It just might be that he wanted to make the collection more young and accessible. As highlighted by The New York Times, the brands today are embracing this strategy in response to the looming threat of a luxury market slowdown. However, solely adopting this approach overlooks the essence of McQueen, which has never been about simplicity or ease in its collections.
McGirr reflected on his earliest memory of a McQueen show, citing the impactful 2001 Voss presentation as a pivotal moment where he recognized the designer’s intention to convey a message through his work. He acknowledged McQueen’s penchant for imbuing his collections with meaning or statements. However, in contrast to McQueen’s tradition, the message in McGirr’s debut show remained elusive and difficult to discern.
When questioned about feeling intimidated by the legacy of his predecessor, Burton, and the iconic namesake designer, McGirr admitted he did not approach the role with such apprehension. Instead, he emphasized his aim to infuse new energy into the brand. However, many longtime McQueen fans expressed disappointment with this ‘new energy,’ feeling that McGirr’s collection diverged too greatly from the refined aesthetic established by McQueen and continued by Burton. Critics frequently compared McGirr to his predecessors, setting high expectations that likely contributed to the mixed reviews of his debut. Yet, it is important to note that this was McGirr’s first show, where he introduced his unique vision to the brand as a new designer.
“For me, it’s about letting the light in,” McGirr shared with Vogue Business during the final fittings in Paris, just four days before the debut show. Ultimately, it appears that McGirr made ambitious promises during the collection's promotion that were not fully realized. Given the esteemed reputation of Alexander McQueen, such lofty expectations are almost unavoidable. However, for McGirr, who is still in the early stages of his career, this setback could serve as a valuable learning experience. He now has the chance to rebound with the next collection, possibly astonishing everyone with a significant turnaround.
