Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024
Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli Spring 2024 Couture Collection emerges onto the Paris fashion stage, offering a synthesis of ageless elegance and fresh, innovative design.
Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024
Theme of the Collection: "Schiaparalien"
Schiaparelli, rooted in the artistic movement of Surrealism since its inception in the 1920s/1930s, has always been synonymous with avant-garde elegance. Elsa Schiaparelli, known as Schiap, shared a close friendship with the renowned artist Salvador Dalí, frequently collaborating on groundbreaking creations. One of the iconic outcomes of their partnership was the "Lobster Dress" from the 1937 spring/summer collection. For this latest collection, Daniel Roseberry delves into the brand's origins, drawing inspiration from the profound connection between Elsa Schiaparelli and her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli—an astronomer credited with the discovery of Mars' canals and the coining of the term "Martian." "My uncle was an extraordinary person, heading the Astronomical Observatory in Milan. He adored me because, as he put it, I was born with the constellation Ursa Major on my cheek—referring, of course, to my beauty marks. He always took me stargazing with his massive telescope, cradling me in his arms while explaining why he believed people like us might inhabit Mars," said Schiap. This familial tie to astronomy is reflected in the symbolic constellation brooch of Ursa Major that the couturier always wore on her chest. For the autumn/winter 1938-39 "Astrology" collection, Elsa drew inspiration from the solar system, crafting garments embellished by François Lesage with a midnight blue galaxy adorned with beads, silver and gold planets—an example is the “Zodiac Jacket” now housed at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. From this historical starting point, Daniel Roseberry embarks on a sartorial journey with the "Schiaparalien" collection. Exploring themes such as stars, space, aliens, and technology, Roseberry seamlessly integrates the cosmic and the terrestrial, paying homage to the brand's celestial roots while pushing the boundaries of fashion into new, otherworldly dimensions.
Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024
Schiaparalien Collection
This conceptual dress took center stage during the runway show. The ensemble, paired ingeniously with a matching handbag, is composed not only of rhinestones but also of pieces of electronic devices predating 2007—pieces so antiquated that they are as challenging to source as certain vintage fabrics or accessories. The dress's concept bears a striking resemblance to Alexander McQueen's collection for Givenchy Fall/Winter 1999 Couture. The theme of technology is also revisited multiple times by Roseberry within the collection, featuring robotic figurines and "alien" garments. The concept is visually striking, especially in the ensemble where the model, donned in a white tank top and cargo pants, cradles the robotic figurine. Despite its apparent simplicity, the look conceals refined details, such as the deconstructed trousers. All the outfits related to the alien theme are spectacular. Noteworthy is the feathered dress that also covers the face. It's worth noting how the feathers are shorter around the face and gradually lengthen towards the end of the dress. A focal point of the look is the chest lock, now a symbol synonymous with Daniel Roseberry. There are also several pieces that extend beyond the body, in this case, expressing the desire not to adhere to the human form, creating something truly alien. The collection features 32 breathtaking looks, where the concept of "home" also finds its place. For Roseberry, this equates to Texas and its bandanas, cowboy boots, and the iconic braid that adorns the manes of horses engaged in dressage.
In the front row, applauding, prominent celebrities such as Hunter Schafer and Zendaya couldn't be missing!
