Redefining Art
Billie Eilish for Allure. Photo by Cho Gi-Seok.
Billie Eilish has recently been featured on the cover of Allure magazine in a striking photo spread featuring a captivating blend of red, black, and white imagery; in one, her tongue is on fire, in another, she is given butterfly wings. The artist responsible for these mesmerizing and somewhat grotesque visuals, Cho Gi-Seok, is taking the art and fashion industry by storm, and rightfully so. Let’s talk about the artist behind Billie Eilish's Allure cover. Gi-Seok’s unconventional approach to photography sets him apart. Rather than following traditional production methods, he crafts unique and haunting works that seamlessly blend the unusual, grotesque, abstract, and surreal. His collaboration with Billie Eilish on the Allure cover showcases his ability to push boundaries and captivate audiences. Emerging as one of the most prominent rising stars in the Korean fashion scene, Gi-Seok gained widespread recognition after producing a series of photographs for i-D Korea in 2021. The artist aimed to illustrate the “diversity and uniqueness within the Korean identity” by incorporating elements of tradition and modernity, subcultures, and his personal brand into his work.
For i-D Korea. All photos by Cho Gi-Seok.
In an interview for Vogue Italia, Gi-Seok shared his perspective: “I looked at millions of images online, and gradually I realized that none of them told what I was familiar with. At that point, I decided to work on an iconography that spoke of the new Korean identity, of the people around me, of my most intimate emotions. And at the same time, it would address the world.” By adopting traditional symbols of both Korea and East Asia - such as the Korean traditional attire hanbok, performative masks tal, or even Japanese trading cards like Yu-Gi-Oh - into his work, Gi-Seok creates an iconography that speaks to the new Korean identity while addressing a global audience. Acknowledged on the Business of Fashion’s list of people shaping the global fashion industry (BoF 500), Gi-Seok has successfully made a name for himself in the Korean scene and is now extending his influence to the West. His portfolio includes collaborations with major publications like Vogue, Dazed, Wallpaper, and CR, as well as renowned brands such as Converse and Prada. Beyond photography, Gi-Seok is a multifaceted artist, engaging in graphic design, set design, art direction, video direction, and more. In the realm of music, he has collaborated with K-pop groups like Le Sserafim and Tomorrow X Together on concept photos, directed Kali Uchis's music video for “I Wish You Roses,” and now even Billie Eilish.
Stills from “I Wish you Roses” video. Directed by Cho Gi-Seok.
Cho Gi-Seok is not only an influential figure in the art and fashion world but also the founder of the streetwear brand KUSIKOHC. The brand’s motto, “Right to Fail,” succinctly encapsulates the essence of one’s freedom of expression and authenticity. Gi-Seok elaborates on this philosophy, stating, “I believe that challenge and endeavor themselves have the power to change at least small parts of something, even if they fail. Therefore, we have the Right to Fail.” The success of the brand propelled Gi-Seok to the status of a semi-finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize, where he competed alongside 22 other designers. He continues to infuse his creativity into his brand, crafting unique pieces and collections that embody the spirit of artistic exploration and self-expression. Cho Gi-Seok stands out as a versatile artist, making an impact on both the photography and fashion industries. Having already established himself as an outstanding artist, this marks just the beginning of his career; it is thrilling to witness his artistic growth and observe how he will reshape the industry.
