‘Poor Things!’ Costume Insights

'Poor Things!' by Yorgos Lanthimos won the Golden Lion at Venice and garnered eleven Oscar nominations. If you think you'll be watching a costume movie with lace, corsets, and crinolines, even though the story takes place in the late 19th century, you will be shocked. Emma Stone's role as Bella Baxter, the main character, is a Gothic heroine with loose hair, bare legs, and short shorts. The costumes, created by Holly Waddington, defy every convention of period drama and narrate a story within a story about a young girl who grows up to become an adult and finds her place in the world.

Photo: Atsushi Nishijima

Holly Waddington's Punk and Modernist Nineteenth Century

Although Holly Waddington's name may not mean much to you, her work does: she dressed Florence Pugh in 'Lady Macbeth' and Elle Fanning in 'The Great,' as well as serving as an associate costume designer on the set of 'Atonement'. She had a highly punk vision for the nineteenth century in 'Poor Things!,' where latex and modern cutting are combined with classic silhouettes from the turn of the century. Cutoffs during the Victorian era? Yes, the main character is an anomaly that defies societal norms; she was created during a scientific experiment and is eager to learn new things. Very much alive, but not quite human. She views the world without bias, assumptions, or superstructures. She expresses her opinions clearly, listens to her intuition, and spits what she dislikes on her plate. Her attire, which includes jackets without anything underneath and tube petticoats reminiscent of Moncler down jackets, pays homage to André Courrèges with balloon sleeves and boots, and she wears her raven hair loose down her back like in an Egon Schiele painting. The costume designer's mood board featured images of Jodie Foster's trousers from 'Taxi Driver' next to designs by Madame Vionnet and 'anatomical' gowns by Elsa Schiaparelli. Everything combines and becomes one. The true revolution, though, is a departure from the corset. Bella is unstoppable and needs to always be free to move without restrictions or laces, even if her decision significantly changes the silhouette of the moment, both actual and not.

Poor Things, 2023 / Courtesy Spotlight

The Evolution of Bella Baxter

Emma Stone's character development is reflected in her attire. She initially thinks like a newborn, and that's not a metaphor—Dr. Godwin Baxter used a brain transplant to bring her back to life. She frequently wears only “on top” and moves around with her legs naked as she learns to walk and talk. In an interview with the New York Times, Waddington noted that the decision was a reflection of her youthful disposition, as kids get irritated with clothing. When Bella begins dressing herself, everything changes. She matches her clothes haphazardly, like a young child stealing from her mother’s wardrobe. Her first sexual experience adds color to her clothes, giving her a surreal take on a Disney princess style with a palette heavy in blue and yellow. At last, we locate her in Paris, donning somber, beatnik-inspired jackets. Bella Baxter is a sexually liberated, politically conscious, and driven woman at this point in her life. She does, however, remain true to herself, which is visible when she forgets to put on her skirt.

Poor Things, 2023 / Courtesy Spotlight

The Sexual Liberation of Emma Stone's Character

The protagonist's experience with sex is vital, and many of the fabrics and nuances were picked to remind us of the flesh. The ruffles and pleats, according to the costume designer, are a reference to female genitalia. In fact, one of Bella's blouses has been dubbed the "vagina blouse." Not to mention the waterproof cape in yellow, designed to resemble the condoms of the past. On the other end of the scale, though, is Emma Stone's wedding gown, which has a delicate tubular shape that makes her look like a cage. The actress was the one with the brilliant idea to tie the veil around her face like a blindfold while it was being filmed.

Poor Things, 2023 / Courtesy Spotlight

Will Puffy Sleeves be the Trend of 2024?

Holly Waddington was given just one point of reference to work with when creating the costumes for the movie, a pair of puffy pants, by director Lanthimos. So, the main stylistic characteristic of the characters' clothes became exaggerated silhouettes. For instance, Bella Baxter's gowns are renowned for their flamboyant gigot sleeves that resemble inflated balloons. An emblematic expression of her character and power. To put it briefly, an unconventional take on the 1980s puff sleeves. Predictions suggest that the fashion of 2024 will feature voguish and ostentatious puff sleeves. Poor things, indeed, but exquisitely dressed.