Mr. Pearl
Mr. Pearl stands as perhaps the most renowned corsetière of both the 20th and 21st centuries, collaborating with luminaries such as Vivienne Westwood, Kylie Minogue, and Dita Von Teese. Yet, despite his status as a fashion icon, his presence in the media remains notably sparse. He exists as an icon in the shadows, his craftsmanship and life deserving of greater recognition. Hence, Raandoom has chosen to dedicate this article to him.
Born in 1962, Mark Erskine-Pullin, better known as Mr. Pearl, discovered his lifelong passion at a young age while assisting his grandmother, with whom he resided, in lacing her corsets. This early experience sparked a calling within him. Later, he made the pivotal decision to relocate to London to pursue a career in costume design, securing a position at the prestigious Royal Opera House. It was there that he crossed paths with renowned figures in the industry and collaborated with the legendary Leigh Bowery. Through Bowery, Mr. Pearl began creating costumes for nightclub performers, adopting the pseudonym “Pearl” for his work in this realm.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Mr. Pearl began to garner the recognition he deserved. This period marked his collaborations with leading figures in fashion, including Thierry Mugler, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, and Alexander McQueen. His work with McQueen, in particular, stood out, as he designed corsets for the designer in 1995 and 1996, even gracing the catwalk himself during the 1995 Spring-Summer The Birds runway show. It was during this era that Mr. Pearl adopted the practice of wearing corsets daily, starting at the age of 30. He would wear waist-training corsets continuously, only removing them for bathing. Over time, he managed to reduce his waist size to an astonishing 460 mm (18 inches). Mr. Pearl has expressed that beyond the physical sensation, wearing corsets has had a profound impact on both his physical and mental awareness.
Corset created by Mr Pearl for Alexander McQueen’s Dante show (AW96). Exhibited in Savage Beauty in The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Mr Pearl for Alexander McQueen’s Dante show (AW96). Credit: REUTERS
One of Mr. Pearl's most notable creations was the Galliano-designed corsets worn by Kylie Minogue during her Showgirl tour. He also gained recognition for the iconic floor-length corset dress created for Jean-Paul Gaultier in 2001. However, his most famous client remains Dita Von Teese. Mr. Pearl continues to craft made-to-order and custom-made corsets for Von Teese and a select group of private clients. Von Teese frequently showcases his corsets in her burlesque performances and other public appearances.
Kylie Minogue wearing a corset made by Mr. Pearl, 2002. Photography by Ali Mahdavi.
Dita Von Teese wearing Mr. Pearl's corset. Via: The Independent.
Dita Von Teese wearing Mr. Pearl's corset. Via: Instagram.
Sophie Dahl wearing a Mr Pearl-designed corset dress at Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2001. Via: Twitter.
Despite gaining recognition and acclaim as a corsetière by the early 2000s, Mr. Pearl remained humble about his expertise. He saw himself not as a master of the craft but rather as a designer who incorporated corsetry and lacing into his creations. He aspired to reach the level of the few true corsetières still practising worldwide. Whether he ever altered this perspective is uncertain. However, what is crystal clear is his incredible skill, creativity, and unwavering dedication to his craft.
Now in his 60s, Mr. Pearl remains active in his craft, although with a reduced workload compared to earlier years. He predominantly focuses on his private clients. His corsets are featured in several fashion collections around the world, including the V&A, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Fashion Museum in Bath. Once a controversial figure and now a beloved icon, Mr. Pearl entered the fashion scene at a time when the corset was often viewed as a symbol of female oppression. However, Pearl’s creations stood apart, exuding power, sexuality, and pleasure. In his own words, “It is not about being fashionable. I do not follow fashion at all. I’m interested in an ideal, a kind of expression of elegance, which really has nothing to do with fashion.”
