Maison Margiela SS 24’ Artisanal
In Paris' iconic Pont d’Alexandre III, John Galliano crafted a night to remember with his Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal show. Set in a dimly lit, underground Parisian club, with the Seine's restless waters as a backdrop, Galliano unveiled a collection that was a fashion phenomenon. The show, bursting with theatricality and emotion, delved deep into Galliano's world of historical fantasies and rebellious characters, echoing the vibrancy of Brassai's portraits of Paris's nightlife in the 1920s and '30s.
The setting was mesmerizing: a rain-soaked descent leading to a door that opened into a world imbued with the aura of a forgotten Parisian nightspot. Inside, amid cafe tables, spent drinks, and dim mirrors, Galliano transported us into a realm of his own creation. The ambiance was electric, charged with an eerie, yellowed light that set the stage for a parade of characters and couture that spoke Galliano's language in its purest form. The collection was a testament to Galliano's year-long devotion to craftsmanship. His use of ultra-extreme corsetry, padded hips, and erotically sheer lace dresses showcased a level of skill and imagination rarely seen. Chiffon-masked makeup, eerie doll-like body modifications, and wildly imaginative hairstyles complemented the garments, creating an otherworldly experience. Film projections on the mirrors added a surreal layer, blurring the line between the real and the imagined.
Maison Margiela, haute couture spring 2024 credit: Simbarashe Cha/The New York Times
Galliano's unfiltered creativity shone through. Among the hourglass dresses and nuanced details, bold statements emerged, like the apparent pubic hair seen through tulle and lace. Galliano's techniques were so unique they resembled walking paintings, with watercolor-like nudes and blurry facial features. The event marked a significant moment for fashion. Galliano's unwavering commitment to extreme creativity stands as a beacon in an industry where daring is often subdued. His authenticity and skillful execution of his vision resonate with a voice we've known for decades, yet it was presented with newfound power and precision. On the night of the wolf moon, the first full moon of the new year, Galliano's show transformed the vaulted caverns beneath the Pont Alexandre III bridge into a decaying, dreamlike club. The atmosphere, with crepe paper streamers and battered bistro chairs, set the tone for a fashion fantasy rooted in extreme corsetry and historical allusions. The show was a journey through time, where flesh became fabric, and the past intertwined with the present. The audience's reaction was a testament to Galliano's artistry. The overwhelming emotion led to a collective acknowledgment of a fashion experience unlike any other. Galliano's show was a reminder of his unique place in fashion history, a blend of theatricality and exquisite design that had seemed a relic of the past.
John Galliano's Maison Margiela show justified the relevance of haute couture in today's world, showcasing clothes that were not mere garments but narratives woven into fabric. Galliano's genius lies in his ability to tell stories through his designs, considering every nuance from the light that falls on a dress to the historical context that shapes it. His Maison Margiela show was a masterclass in fashion storytelling, reaffirming his status as one of the greatest designers of our time.
