Magliano S/S 25

Luca “Luchino” Magliano, elevated to the Olympus of the most promising and exciting projects in Italian fashion, was born in Bologna in 1987. His creative vision was deeply shaped by the politically active environment of his hometown and the Neapolitan roots of his father, which instilled a sense of creativity and independence in him. At thirty, he launched his brand, Magliano, quickly becoming a leading voice for a new generation of designers.

“C'era una volta un pezzo di legno” - (“There once was a piece of wood”). This is how the press release for Magliano's Spring/Summer 2025 collection begins, quoting the opening line of Carlo Collodi's “Pinocchio”. Magliano’s show told a modern fairy tale where emotions were translated into style codes, which were visually clear and authentic. The creative director crafted a collection that reflects our emotions, speaking to us through “insubordinate” pieces - rebellious, underdog garments.

Look 24, Magliano S/S 25 via ShowStudio

The show's name, “Calcinculo” (a popular Italian swing ride where seats rotate mid-air), already hinted at the exploration of two sides of life, distinct yet complementary. Magliano dedicated this collection to fleeting and surprising moments that break through like a flash on a clear day: melancholy and beauty, destruction and allure. He expressed all of this through simple, sometimes essential silhouettes that evoke the early 2000s. The dominant colors are black and white, with touches of gray, enriched by unexpected details like belts and raffia jewelry made from disassembled wicker baskets, and bows used as brooches in a rebellious way. This return to early 2000s aesthetics brings us back to a studied narrative simplicity, often overlooked but sorely needed in fashion today. Though it may seem like a bare-bone narrative, it is anything but. It’s a refined story, respecting certain aesthetic codes that, in recent years, have been misunderstood and distorted, losing sight of their pure beauty and authenticity.

Magliano's pieces play with reversed roles, as if in an upside-down world: coats become towels, and swimsuits replace evening shorts. It’s a collection designed with a light heart (yet with awareness), evoking a summer night filled with carefree moments and bittersweet goodbyes to friends, those farewells that bring you back to everyday life in the blink of an eye. A new shoe also debuts: the Effe 10, blending elements of racing and clogs - avant-garde generational touches that are essential. An admirer of Franco Moschino and an avid reader of late 20th-century authors like Sandro Penna, Pasolini, and Cesare Pavese, Luca Magliano has once again distinguished himself with a vision that unites provincial craftsmanship and, above all, plurality. The designer works closely with artisans and small local workshops, allowing him to create deconstructed and inclusive garments that evoke Italian memories. His ability to reinterpret traditional Italian tailoring through a personal lens rooted in culture has led to what has been described as “magical realism”.

Look 20, Magliano S/S 25 via ShowStudio

Magliano himself described the Spring/Summer 2025 collection as “an act of memory, a flow of sensations and experiences from the age when sexual awareness and a sense of one's own body begin to form - the transition out of childhood”. Just like his art, Magliano is growing, and this new path will not end with this collection but will continue in the seasons to come. Just as Collodi’s fairy tale marks a switch into adulthood, Luca has shed the mantle of an emerging designer to establish himself as one of the most creative forces in the Italian fashion scene - a point of reference for future generations and a proponent of a fashion that is finally authentic and uncompromising.

While maintaining a romantic and dreamy approach with a connection to a sweet childhood, this collection is a manifesto of concreteness - a declaration of intent to create rational disobedience, authentic subversiveness. Magliano places humanity at the center, recognizing it as a conscious being capable of overturning behavioral norms, using the body and the way it acts in this world as a tool for rebellion and a means of expression.