Luar AW25
Raul Lopez presents his Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection “El Pato” at New York Fashion Week. Lopez reclaims the meaning of “El Pato,” a slur often levied against queer people in the Caribbean, in a collection that celebrates the flamboyancy that he was once bullied for.
A model walks down the runway for Luar Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection during New York Fashion Week in February. Photo by Hatnim Lee and made available via Dazed. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Raul Lopez presented Luar’s Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection in New York City’s Financial District on one of the last days of New York Fashion Week in a celebration of queerness. Lopez’s coming of age into his LGBTQIA+ identity between a seamstress mother and a construction worker father in the heart of New York City occurred during the AIDS crisis sweeping the city. “El Pato” was a regular staple during those times, a dirty word originating from the Caribbean being thrown around in attack against queer people despite its translation to duck. Titled after the derogatory term, the collection allowed Lopez to reclaim the slur.
Luar has always been unapologetic, controversial, and above all else, unique. “Hands like a f*ggot” said the show notes, a not-so-subtle hint to the stereotypical gay men hand gesture with a hand held out limply bent at the wrist. Lopez embraces this narrative, reworking what is meant to be an offensive cliché into an assertive stance of power in the form of a sweater that holds one’s hands into a permanent limp-wrist position. The look was just one of many in-your-face motifs featured throughout the striking collection devoted to embracing all forms of body regardless of identity. Looks flaunted down the runway in a showcase of the flamboyant styles Lopez was once bullied for.
Models walk Luar’s Autumn/Winter 2025 in New York City’s Financial District during New York Fashion Week in February. These looks feature Lopez’s “hands of a f*ggot” motif with sweaters engineered to keep models’ hands limp-wristed. Photos courtesy of Luar and made available via Hypebeast. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
In essence, the show is a metaphor of Lopez growing into himself, drawing upon the literal translation of duck before emerging as a swan. The theme presents itself in the feathers, some subtly woven within the fabric while others proudly displayed on belts, bags, and jackets. Feather-adorned caps resembling swim caps were firmly fastened onto some of the models’ heads while one model bore an ostentatious white cap exploding with feathers with another sporting a tiny cap with large black and white feathers extending as a sunburst out wide.
Lopez is known for his experiments with punk themes and Chicano aesthetics, mixing traditional heritage with modern, counter-cultural concepts. The blend was never more obvious than now. The show’s openers featured white coats in flamboyant styles, one thick with feathers emerging in tufts while another thin with a high, upturned collar with half a face mask and glasses. White pieces gave way to gray as models came down the runway in structured pieces, one in a large overcoat with another in a structural, wrap-around headpiece reminiscent of a duckling emerging from its egg.
Models walk down the runway for Raul Lopez’ “El Pato” collection for Luar’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show at New York Fashion Week in February. Photos courtesy of Luar and made available via Hypebeast. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Necklines are a thing of the past with Luar’s abundance of turtlenecks, collars, and drop shoulder styles. Bold, mismatched pieces are toned down to fitted trousers and matching two-piece sets as Lopez appears to grow into himself and his eccentricity. Feathers are scarce, signaling a time of reflection as Lopez ponders his self-worth. Black, feather-embedded fabric is manipulated into bulkier silhouettes as jumpsuits cinched at the waist with feather embellishments and black leather moto dresses emerge on the runway. It's only fair the show arrives at a bold statement of the night with a sweatshirt dress bearing the phrase “I talk shit about you in Spanish” paired with a white feathered bag and sheer gloves.
Lopez’s individuality shines as the show nears conclusion, mixing shades of browns with a tie-dye-like pattern. Lopez doesn’t go quietly as a bold fur coat made its appearance over a sheer bra-like top and above-the-knee crocodile patterned boots. Among the strong shoulders and cropped bombers is Paloma Elsesser in a brown jersey minidress and a final, long jersey dress paired with a cropped bomber embodying the completion of Lopez’s journey. Unforgiving, stiff structures yet friendly, flowing dresses are an enigma among thigh-high boots and feathers galore as Lopez pulls together a showcase of cultural embrace against the cold New York City landscape. Resistance is fierce, and Luar’s AW25 collection is a testament to Lopez’s own against childhood discrimination.
Models walk down the runway for Raul Lopez’ “El Pato” collection for Luar’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show at New York Fashion Week in February. Photos courtesy of Luar and made available via Hypebeast. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
