Legendary Alexander McQueen
The designer Alexander McQueen left an unforgettable impact on the fashion industry with his exceptional and meaningful collections.
A model wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear show. Photo by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Alexander McQueen was one of the most brilliant, skillful designers to ever exist. Throughout his career, he created some of the most iconic runway moments. For example, picture model Shalom Harlow and the spray-painting robots from his Spring 1999 show. Yet, these spectacles cannot even begin to explain McQueen’s genius. They merely add onto the success of his breathtaking designs. His collections show real-world issues and prove that fashion is an expressive art form.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Spring 1995 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
In 1995, McQueen unveiled his sixth collection titled “Highland Rape.” The models wore ripped, distressed, and see-through pieces. The waistbands of their pants hung down below the hips. Additionally, some of the pants revealed their lower backs. Models wore bras or cropped shirts exposing their entire torsos. In the spots their bodies were covered, the fabrics told another story.
Tailored suits, dresses, and jackets included a bold tire print, giving the impression they’d been run over. Cellophane acted as a tight dress or top, barely covering the skin. Black leather and lace contrasted gray, white, and dark red pieces. The silhouettes varied in shape but most looks included both a constrictive top and bottom. McQueen’s designs carried a purpose: to raise awareness about abuse and contribute to a much-needed conversation.
At the time, other designers commercialized their vision to match their buyers’ wants. McQueen stuck to believing in his own vision. After witnessing his sister’s ex-husband abuse her, he wanted to do something about it. While critics said the show was misogynistic, they clearly failed to realize its cultural impact. Within the fashion world, it’s often said: “You can tell when a designer loves women.” As a designer, McQueen didn’t just love women, he deeply cared about their well-being.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Throughout his collections, Alexander McQueen maintained a dark synergy. By embracing the shadows of his work, he stood out as a designer. His Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear collection is an example of this phenomenon. The show was titled “Joan,” clearly referencing the French defender, Joan of Arc. This reference makes an appearance time and time again in the looks.
The show opens with models walking in dresses made of small, intricate chains. The color palette was muted, sticking to tinted shades of blue, grey, red, brown, and black. The models wore tailored jackets, long skirts, and dresses. Additionally, there were a few men’s looks that included leather pieces, lengthy jackets, and tailored pants. While this sounds like an ordinary fashion collection, it is anything but. An uncomfortable nature lies within the details.
Each of the models wore red eye contacts, making them appear otherworldly. Hair twisted the looks further. Most of them had bleached hair with bangs unnervingly high. Noting the reference to the historical figure, a select few models were given metal or sequin caps. Out of 82 looks, only the last thirty or so truly mix colors. There’s a stark contrast between red and black patterns that continues until the end of the collection. Through this show, Alexander McQueen portrayed the tragedy of Joan of Arc. The show, with its disturbing nature, told her story of agony and loss.
Kate Moss appeared in Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2001 “VOSS” collection, delivering one of the most memorable moments in fashion history. Available via IG @archivedrunway © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by JB Villareal / Shoot Digital for Style.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
For a twist, in 2001, Alexander McQueen broke away from his usual, dark runway setting. This time, the models eerily walked in a well-lit box surrounded by mirrors. They could not see outside, but the audience could watch them. In addition to the atmosphere, birds played a role in this season’s designs. (Note: The matching, bird-printed suit top and bottom from Spring 1995.) Birds are synonymous with flying. Yet, does anyone stop to think, what it's like to be caged?
Alexander McQueen covers this topic perfectly. Feathers popped out of muted tops, skirts, and dresses. One model wore a gown with a feathered skirt, and four stuffed birds were suspended mid-air around her head. These feathered pieces made the models appear like they had wings. Yet, they cannot fly and part of the reason is the cruel nature of the show. Almost all of the models wore hospital-like caps as if they were in an accident. Additionally, a great deal of the looks were pale gray, green, and brown. With all of these muted elements, there’s a type of sadness and despair that follows the collection.
Yet, there is something to be said about Alexander McQueen’s technical skills. Though these shows follow a sense of tragedy or loss, each of the pieces is beautifully twisted. A gray, silk dress could be draped like a dream. A burgundy knitted dress could be sheer yet not sheer all at once. Though Alexander McQueen left this world too soon, his designs and impact on the industry will not be forgotten. He created works of art in his collections, and more importantly, he used his spotlight to speak his mind.
