L'arte di Arrangiarsi

Our generation is facing, today, a significant climate crisis. In our own way, we are all trying to be more aware and respectful of the environment, and the first real difference we make is when we purchase clothes for our wardrobe. Fashion has become fast: the concept of giving sentimental and emotional value to garments has been lost, as has the concept of thinking about a particular item in the long term; now we only buy for specific occasions. Clothes have become disposable, but fortunately, more and more young people are starting to buy vintage and second-hand items in order to stop the cycle of compulsive and thoughtless purchases. But above all, they have started approaching the world of upcycling.

For a while now, brands have been shifting towards more sustainable production, since they’re constantly seeking ways to connect with the new generations of creatives: Prada has launched its Re-Nylon collection, Maison Margiela has brought Recicla to life, and Miu Miu has been committed since 2020 to encouraging circular design with the Miu Miu Upcycled project, which recently returned with a new limited edition collection focused on denim and, for the first time, Patch bags. Miu Miu Upcycled is just one of the "big names" that has implemented a study on circularity that honors the origin of clothes while transforming them into something completely new but, actually, there are many small and medium-sized businesses in the world, and especially in Europe, that have made upcycling their primary business.

Miu Miu Upcycled – 2024 Campaign

Miu Miu Upcycled – 2024 Campaign

Upcycling is the twist our century has been waiting for: we can identify it as a creative practice to give new life to existing fabrics and garments. The ultimate goal is to create new pieces using waste materials, fabrics, and objects destined to be discarded, perhaps with different functionalities but which, thanks to a new life, acquire a greater value than the original. Often, the elements used in upcycling products are salvaged from dumpsters or landfill heaps, allowing the resulting products not to end up – at least for the moment – in the recycling loop. But why is upcycling driving young people crazy? Many in previous years have tried to make teenagers more aware by encouraging them to buy clothes made from bio materials with zero impact, but they have always achieved poor results. The reason is that upcycled items cannot always be mass-produced, since only a few products could be created with the materials available, perhaps even just one. This allows the garment to have added value because the person who owns it knows they have a unique piece, and in a historical period where personal expression is the most important thing, upcycling has found a perfect space to fit in. Naples is the homeland of upcycling par excellence; l’arte di ARRANGIARSI (having to make it through with just what you have) and giving new life to garments has its roots as far back as the 1960s when the poorest families bought clothes from the thrift markets owned by house clearance workers that emptied - by request - the houses of wealthy families in the Neapolitan area.

“FACES” campaign – SIMONE tulle dress by @miscelmonton

Indeed, it is precisely here that many realities related to upcycling are emerging; I talked to two young Neapolitan designers, both with their own projects related to the world of fashion: Mario Russo, co-founder and designer of miscelmonton (@miscelmonton) and Alessandro Della Volpe, founder and designer of 3000 (@3000li.f.e). miscelmonton is a Neapolitan brand that has its roots in the oldest Naples: born honoring the memory of the grandfather of one of the co-founders, the brand is the incarnation of the art of making do: its capsules are composed of a few pieces, some 1of1, some produced in series from deadstock fabrics. Mario, the designer, designs each collection based on research and certain basic themes, creating avant-garde and unique pieces, but maintaining a strong connection to the Neapolitan territory in the image and communication. Styled by Rosario Romantico, shot by Luigi Sgambato. "My first approach? At university, I had to analyze a poetry by Rodari, 'Il paese con l’esse davanti' and develop a sustainable outfit inspired by it. [...] The creative process I follow is completely spontaneous, I take pieces from everywhere and then recompose them on paper both in terms of research and design theme. [...] I was born in Naples so I can easily find inspiration in the unique combination of creativity and life. Creativity and curiosity are the best tools I can use to express myself and let it out. In my family, my father is a creative, and so was my grandfather, his brother the same. My father is my main source of inspiration, a 360-degree creative example for me because he is a person capable of immersing himself in anything and doing it very well. From designing objects useful at home made of things found on the beach or on the street, to tailoring any item of clothing. Some time ago he decided to redo the bathroom at home: he changed the tiles, replaced a bathtub with a shower, and painted floral patterns on the marble sinks. I learned everything I needed, stole it and made it mine. My influences are easily distinguishable in my works, even though they are a lot: video games, manga, cartoons, music, movies, and all the passions I had as a child (cars, Lego, figurines). I consciously try to fit everything into the creative act in my own way; this is the only way I can transport myself to another dimension. Behind the brand, there is a concept that is not easy for me to explain; miscelmonton now more than ever is a turning point for me, having Eleonora by my side on this journey is a godsend. Met randomly at university thanks to Mac Miller, she is now practically my best friend. I am extremely happy that she is with me behind this movement (imagine it just like a wave) that shakes everything to make room for a new scene of young people who also want to express their own art, a wave that breaks those daily patterns imposed by people or algorithms whose goals are to enrich themselves while others drown."

Tank top and jeans by @3000li.f.e on “L’OFFICIEL Italia” - styled by Rebecca Cuscione, Manuel Roscigno e Chiara Senese, shot by Paoli De Luca.

3000 is an upcycling brand that has carved out a space in the hearts of young people thanks to its streetwear and contemporary approach. Alessandro's designs are a celebration of denim fabrics and dismantled outerwear sewn together to create something unique, and this has allowed the brand to be recognizable as some emerging artists (also appearing on TV) have served as ambassadors, and many exhibitions on sustainable fashion have featured its creations. But how does one approach upcycling rather than mass production? What drives young designers to delve into this world? Alessandro had his first approach thanks to university: "Later I researched, delved deeper, there are different approaches you can take. Personally, my creative process is always different: first I think, elaborate, and then I immediately rush to make it, but it also happens that I realize the idea when I have it and calmly make the necessary changes if needed. Just as ideas come suddenly at any time, I act in the same way: on the spot. What I know is that I don't want to categorize myself or set limits, I could create something extremely different from what was done the day before. In everything I do, I always put my soul into it, my satisfaction lies in seeing something realized that initially was just an idea. [...] Changing the world itself is almost impossible, but from small ideas and awakenings come great revolutions and solutions. I have always believed in rediscovering that kind of care and dedication that small businesses had in the past when it came to tailoring clothes; each piece was designed with the customer and tailored specifically for them. When I started, my intention was to convey a message of slowness, awareness, and uniqueness, I thought it would be easier, but then I faced reality and realized that there is still a lot of work to do because some mentalities are deeply rooted and engraved in certain individuals; often, roots very difficult to uproot."