Iconic Bikini

The bikini revolution represents a dynamic shift in cultural perceptions, merging liberation with controversy to redefine societal norms and transform summer fashion. This iconic garment challenges traditional views on body image and personal freedom, establishing itself as a symbol of empowerment and style in the modern world.

Pathé/Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis Courtesy of Getty Images via Vogue France

Two-piece garments have been known since antiquity, as evident in frescoes and mosaics from the Greek and Roman eras, dating back to the 1st–2nd century AD. In these artistic depictions, female figures are shown wearing garments similar to our modern swimsuit. However, these were not used for swimming or sunbathing but for athletics, dancing, ball games, and gymnastics.

Around 1935, the first two-piece specifically designed for swimming emerged, exposing the arms, shoulders, legs, and part of the belly, while keeping the navel covered. The modern bikini was invented in Paris by Louis Réard in 1946 and was launched on July 5 of the same year, a date now celebrated as World Bikini Day. Réard refined the design of the "Atome," a tiny swimsuit previously created by Jacques Heim, by making it even smaller to reveal the navel. Interestingly, Réard was an automotive engineer before he took over his mother's lingerie business. His inspiration came from observing women on the beach who would roll up their swimsuits to enhance their tan.

The bikini's debut caused a sensation due to its minimal size by the standards of that time. Réard, realizing the disruptive impact his creation could have, named it "bikini" in honor of the Bikini Atoll in the Marshall Islands, where the U.S. was conducting nuclear tests.

The bikini quickly became controversial. At its launch, no model dared to wear it except Micheline Bernardini, a stripper from the Casino de Paris. Over the following years, the bikini struggled to gain societal acceptance. In the USA, it faced strong opposition and was banned from the Miss World competition in 1951 and on beaches in Italy, Spain, and Portugal. In Italy, police were even tasked with enforcing the ban.

The tide began to turn in 1958 when actress Brigitte Bardot was photographed wearing a bikini in Cannes, leading to greater public acceptance. The bikini became a symbol of pop culture, and the U.S. swimsuit market was born. The song "Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini" by Brian Hyland in 1960 and the "Beach Party" film series further cemented its iconic status. In 1964, "Sports Illustrated" featured a model in a bikini on its cover, marking the complete acceptance of the garment.

Thanks to cinema and magazines, the bikini became widely popular, leading to the abolition of restrictive laws against its use. Iconic figures like Ursula Andress in "Agent 007: License to Kill" (1962), Raquel Welch in "One Million Years B.C." (1966), and Phoebe Cates in "Fast Times at Ridgemont High" (1982) contributed to the bikini's liberation.

During the 70s, the trend of reducing the size of bikinis continued, with the introduction of the Brazilian thong. Today, a bikini is humorously defined as comprising a single bottom piece ("monokini") and a hat.

The bikini has shaped sex appeal as we know it today, featuring prominently in many films and TV series, like "Baywatch," and even as metallic armor worn by fantasy heroines like Elektra and Emma Frost from Marvel Comics.

This summer of 2024, the bikini showcases elegant yet sensual variations in vibrant colors like pink, red, caramel, and orange. Many fashion houses are focusing on sustainability, using high-quality recycled materials and reviving 80s styles with bold colors and retro details.

The bikini remains a complex and controversial symbol. It embodies expressive freedom and female emancipation, challenging conservative norms since the 1940s. Yet, it also represents a source of oppression for some, highlighting societal pressures related to beauty standards. Regardless, the bikini continues to be an iconic element of summer fashion, embodying various meanings for different people.