Honouring Vivienne
Photography Harley Weir
In December 2022, the legendary designer Vivienne Westwood passed away, leaving behind a lasting legacy. Now, her husband and collaborator, Andreas Kronthaler, has taken on the responsibility of steering the business forward, ensuring the brand’s continued success while honouring Vivienne’s name. In only his second show since her passing, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection proved to be a testament to Kronthaler’s dedication. What set this show apart as a tribute to Vivienne’s legacy, rather than merely showcasing the brand, was Kronthaler’s unique approach. He scavenged Vivienne’s personal wardrobe, curating a show featuring 39 of her iconic looks. Kronthaler shared with Hypebeast, “The collection consists of all the clothes Vivienne wore and all the clothes we made together over the past 30 years. In May, I went through and archived her closet at home — that’s why it’s called ‘43 Old Town,’ which is our house.” The runway featured models adorned in pieces such as Vivienne’s famous Inferno Jacket from the fall 2005 “Exhibition,” a puffed dress with a floor-length ribbon head-covering from the FW09 collection, and a Jacquard silk dress with cape, dark sunglasses, and a red lip-stained hood. Discussing his creative process, Kronthaler revealed, “I thought that this would be the next collection somehow, and I didn’t know how to approach it because it was quite a lot of looks, over 200. I photographed the looks and numbered them, put them all in a hat, and picked 34 because those are the years I knew Vivienne.”
The collection paid homage to the brand’s British roots through tailored pieces, a nod to Vivienne’s fondness for tailored items in her wardrobe. The highlight of the show was the “Storm In a Teacup” raffia lace dress paired with a matching veil. The finale featured two bridal corseted gowns from the spring 2012 “War & Peace” collection, with Vivienne’s granddaughter Cora Corré gracing the runway in the final gown, earning a lengthy standing ovation. Kronthaler reflected on his choices, stating, “I thought what I did was appropriate. I didn’t feel like I should go too far. I didn’t want to do a fashion show in the classic sense with showpieces and fantasy. I wanted to base it on the clothes I archived from her private wardrobe, which was quite an emotional journey.” This show was not intended to showcase commercially wearable garments; instead, it served as a sentimental journey through Vivienne’s revolutionary legacy. It celebrated her name, creative genius, and the unique relationship she shared with Kronthaler, as well as the new history he is about to create.
