Fashion's Forced Stunts
Courtesy of Coperni
Like a comment I once saw on an Instagram post by i-D, it seems everyone is attempting to recreate their late-90s Alexander McQueen moment, and I couldn't agree more. The runway has long served as a canvas for performance art, a platform for fashion brands to showcase their collections in intriguing and engaging ways, ensuring a memorable show for their audience. McQueen was a master of this art form, utilizing his runway shows to push boundaries and challenge conventions, which was groundbreaking for his era. His shows were famous for their theatrical flair, with themes that ranged from romance to death and rebirth, possibly reflecting his own personal struggles as an artist. One of his most memorable shows involved a model being spray-painted by robots. This was later echoed by the French womenswear brand Coperni, which featured Black Mirror-inspired robot dogs removing clothing from models—a continuation of the spray-on dress that went viral in September 2022 with supermodel Bella Hadid, evoking memories of Shalom Harlow in McQueen’s Spring/Summer 1999 presentation.
Image of Shalom Harlow at Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer 1999 show
Though I'm passionate about the fusion of technology with fashion and performance art (having dabbled digitally with generative AI myself), the increasing reliance on stunts and gimmicks in fashion shows, aimed at generating viral content, leaves something to be desired. In this digital age, the fashion industry has observed a captivating trend: runway stunts capturing the online attention of millions, catapulting brands to new levels of notoriety. This surge in shock value within the fashion realm raises questions about the motivation behind these attention-seeking spectacles. Are they driven by a genuine artistic vision, or are they simply a byproduct of our current, social media-influenced culture of fashion enthusiasts?
I'm not here to criticize Coperni; the aforementioned shows were groundbreaking, pushing the envelope in terms of future fashion design. I genuinely appreciate the strategies employed by fashion houses to ignite a renaissance of creativity and marketing, appealing especially to a digital-savvy generation like Gen Z. But was the primary allure the fashion itself, or merely Bella Hadid or the brand's intent to achieve viral status? Numerous questions could have been centered around Coperni's fashion acumen, potentially leading to increased sales or innovation.
FKA twigs x Valentino SS24. Courtesy of Valentino.
Consider Balenciaga's Glastonbury-inspired Spring/Summer 2023 show, which featured Kanye West at the previous year's Paris Fashion Week, or British artist FKA Twigs' interpretive performance for Valentino's Spring/Summer 2024 presentation at the recent Paris event. From set design to theatrical elements and musical performances, many aspects lean more towards being mere stunts than genuinely conveying the designer's vision of ready-to-wear fashion. These performances might not always align with the narrative.
It would be unreasonable to compare Demna's Balenciaga with the works of Nicolas Ghesquière or Alexander Wang; each designer offers their own unique interpretation for their respective brands. But might these elements lead to a dilution of the intrinsic value and meaning of fashion? If everything goes viral, what will remain etched in our memories as our attention spans inevitably wane with each passing year?
Though stunts can be entertaining and a viral moment can undeniably benefit all parties involved, performance art is much more than a mere spectacle—it's a powerful tool to evoke emotions and stimulate meaningful discussions. While McQueen's runway shows were undoubtedly attention-grabbing, they were designed to both create a buzz and underscore the designer's artistic expertise. In contrast, some modern brands appear more preoccupied with achieving social media stardom and amassing followers through excessive celebrity inclusions and gimmicky antics than with highlighting the actual fashion.
Fashion as Artistic Commentary
Images courtesy of Loewe, artwork by Anthea Hamilton.
It's vital to recognize that the fashion landscape is incredibly diverse. Several contemporary brands continue to enchant spectators with their thought-provoking and novel presentations. For example, at Milan's Fashion Week in September 2022, the AVAVAV runway show provided a biting and satirical perspective on the industry's obsession with prestige. Models intentionally tripped as they strutted, challenging prevailing notions of perfection and critiquing the broader state of the fashion world. AVAVAV's goal was to challenge the often stifling seriousness of the fashion milieu.
A dress from Loewe FW 22.
Jonathan Anderson's Fall/Winter 2022 collection for Loewe was a celebration of surrealism. Anderson unveiled an array of visuals that left spectators both captivated and wanting more. With creations that resembled automobiles, interpretations of the human form, wearable art pieces, and a runway graced with acrylic pumpkins, the collection compelled viewers to reconsider their established beliefs about attire and the potential limitations of the human body. By juxtaposing the recognizable with the extraordinary, Anderson showcased the metamorphic power of fashion, its ability to pose questions, and its potential to meld visual art with performance.
The chase for internet virality is perpetually trying to satiate the appetite for ever-increasing novelty. Social media platforms have fashioned a world where audiences constantly seek entertainment. Advances in technology, a reshuffling of our social priorities, and rampant consumerism have rendered zealous gatekeepers powerless in preventing the masses from keeping abreast of all developments in fashion. The omnipresence of algorithms has brought us to our current state—a period characterized by unrestricted access and a perpetual quest for originality.
In the online marketplace, the dizzying speed of fast fashion reigns supreme. Trends appear and vanish in mere moments. As social media marketing permeates every industry, it's unsurprising that brands are fervently trying to carve out and maintain their digital identities and public appeal. But the fame garnered on social media is ephemeral. In contrast, the timeless essence encapsulated in heritage and the ongoing evolution of brands truly cements their prestigious standing in the fashion world. Both designers and models bear the responsibility of using the runway as a platform to introduce fresh concepts. Fashion has the power to delineate the essence of luxury and design. While spontaneous stunts may achieve temporary fame and viral popularity, it's the calculated actions within the realm of fashion—incorporating profound brand narratives and eliciting contemplation through the medium of performance art—that will be immortalized.
