Dolcevita Desire

In 1960, the film "La Dolce Vita," directed by Federico Fellini, was released in cinemas. It featured a character, the dandy Pierone, who wears a “dolcevita,” a turtleneck sweater that symbolizes luxury and carefreeness. According to legend, the sweater's name was inspired by the film's title. Following this, the dolcevita gained prestige and came to embody elegance and savoir-faire. What follows is the evolution of this piece of clothing, which has become a key element in contemporary aesthetics.

Federico Fellini and Anita Ekberg on the set of "La Dolce Vita," by Umberto Cicconi.

During the end of winter, it happens that a good feeling pervades us as soon as we leave the house. It's as if we already feel the imminent change of season. Suddenly we notice that we are observing flowers starting to bloom more often as we walk along an avenue. Their scent remains in the nose and then in the memory, until we carry it with us in everyday life. We feel a desire for spring, for good weather, for warmth, for open air. And the desire to take off those heavy sweaters grows exponentially. Precisely in those moments, we come to terms with what is our "anticipated" image of spring, and the reality of the facts: temperatures still quite low, rainy days and fresh air, the sun only appearing at times.

But there is a trusted friend who helps us in this period so full of different sensations: the “dolcevita.” This item of clothing, with such a poetic name, envelops us and accompanies us especially during periods like these, in which the desire for lightness clashes with the need for a warm embrace.

It is, in fact, a light sweater that can be simple or worked; it is worn rather close to the body and with a high collar, which is turned up at the height of the chin until it covers the entire neck. It differs from other garments such as the turtleneck because the latter has a collar that ends only halfway down the throat.

Today we find it available in different fabric variants such as wool, cashmere, or cotton, and can be worn alone or as an under-jacket, replacing the shirt. In any case, the dolcevita finds wide application not only in casual and sporty fashion but also in more formal and elegant outfits.

1954: Audrey Hepburn. Courtesy of Popperfoto/Getty Images

Its evocative name refers to its truly fabulous history in fashion. In fact, it seems that this iconic item of clothing dates back to the Middle Ages, during which it was worn by knights under their heavy armor to protect the skin from rubbing. Subsequently, the dolcevita became a functional element of men's work clothing: it was used by fishermen, workers, and athletes to protect the neck from the elements, as they were unable to wear scarves.

In the 40s and 50s, the dolcevita was transformed into a symbol of femininity thanks to the Sweater Girls: literally stolen from the men's wardrobe, it was preparing to become an unmissable piece in women's outfits too; girls of the caliber of Lana Turner, Jane Russell, and Marilyn Monroe showed off their curves under turtleneck sweaters, dressing them two sizes smaller to give greater emphasis to their breasts and décolleté. A boom of sensual femininity that struck the people of the time, arousing the indignation of traditionalists and the enthusiasm of young innovators, especially of the feminist movement.

PHOTO: ALFRED EISENSTAEDT/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

In 1960, "La Dolce Vita" was released in cinemas, a film directed by the great Federico Fellini in which one of the characters, the dandy Pierone, wears a turtleneck sweater in a scene that becomes the emblem of luxury and carefreeness. Pierone finds himself sitting at a table in a restaurant, outdoors, along one of the most beautiful streets in Rome: from the cinematic image of a worldly Rome to the collective imagination regarding reality, it was a short step. The economic recovery of those years, combined with the desire for lightness and beauty, soon infected not only all of Rome but also the whole of Italy and the world around it, in the wake of cinema. It would therefore seem that the name of this sweater originated from the title of the film. From then on, the dolcevita acquired prestige: it became a symbol of elegance, luxury, and savoir-faire. Men like Ted Kennedy, Vladimir Ashkenazy, Marcello Mastroianni, and Andy Warhol could no longer help but wear it, increasing its success.

Among women, during the 1960s it proved to be one of the most iconic garments, worn in combination with cigarette trousers, preferably of the same colour. While in France, the dolcevita represented almost a uniform for every respectable existentialist intellectual, recalling a minimalist style that exalted individual cultural emancipation. It was Juliette Gréco, a Parisian singer and exponent of this current of thought, who made the dolcevita a declaration of female cultural independence, distancing herself from the famous "two sizes smaller." Since then, the iconic sweater has become the definitive representation of those who have something to say and not to show, whether man or woman.

Today, it may perhaps seem obvious, but it is wonderful to focus on how a single item of clothing embodies characteristics such as functionality, audacity, versatility, and elegance. Be careful though, it doesn't look good on everyone! In fact, it is not recommended for those with a short neck and very broad shoulders, or even for those with large breasts, as it tends to create a voluminous focal point in the upper body area, breaking up the figure. The green light, however, is given to those with a long or normal neck, narrow shoulders, and small breasts.

Another attractive feature is that it lends itself to the most varied outfits: together with jeans or dark elegant trousers; with a tight high-waisted skirt; with a leather jacket and boots; under a trench coat, an overcoat, a cardigan, or a v-neck sweater. It can also replace the shirt, worn under a tailored suit: in this case, it creates a dynamic contrasting effect, very elegant and easy at the same time.

The dolcevita is anything but boring, and its strength comes precisely from its simplicity. As evidence of its eclectic character, we can take as an example all the people who loved and love wearing it: Sophia Loren, Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Françoise Hardy, Carl Sagan, Steve Jobs, Gwyneth Paltrow, Bella Hadid, Anne Hathaway, and Victoria Beckham. While on the catwalks, stylists from all over the world have recognized its timeless potential, parading it in the most varied combinations. However, always with a minimum common denominator: the desire to live and enjoy beauty. Exactly as represented in Fellini's film and as perceived by our desire for spring, still warmed in its soft and light embrace.