Dark Academia

The dark academia aesthetic is one that has been going around on social media for a few years now. Within this subculture, there is a focus on romanticism and classical ideals. The nostalgic, often gothic characterizations of art, literature, and learning in general have made it an inspiration for millions for fashion, culture, and traditionalism.

The (Secret) History
Dark academia is, first and foremost, a literary genre, emanating primarily from Donna Tartt’s influential novel "The Secret History," published in 1992. The book is set within an elitist school in Vermont, following the challenges faced by the protagonist in embedding himself among a group of wealthy Greek academics. The subculture traces its origins to a pre-technology era when there was a deep-rooted interest of the upper classes in classical literature, architecture, and languages, to name but a few. As such, it is not simply a pretentious way of being moody; rather, it is a reverence for literature and learning.

There have been countless other books since Tartt’s creation which follow a similar path of haunting narrative, including M. L. Rio’s "If We Were Villains" and the more recent "Babel" by R. F. Kuang. All these novels emphasize the mystique of dark academia: gothic architecture, melancholy weather, and vintage, often autumnal, fashion. The sentimentality of the trend has attracted millions, transporting them to an idealized version of school and college. As you navigate dark academia mood boards and aesthetic studying graphics, you can imagine being sat in an empty, dark-paneled library, classical music overhead, and a blustery breeze outside the window.

The Genre
The genre really is what it says in the title: dark. In this sense, it is less romanticized, instead focusing on crime, secret clubs, and a general sense of danger. The trend has gone far beyond its humble literary roots. First, it was movies that took on the mystical mantle. Two Robin Williams films particularly resonate with the vibe: "Dead Poets Society" and "Good Will Hunting." Both films center their aesthetics around archaic, scholarly architecture (a boarding school in the former, a college in the latter). The dark academic atmosphere also extends, in a more subtle way, to the film adaptations of "Harry Potter", featuring the cavernous rooms and preppy students of Hogwarts.

Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (2001)

And now dark academia bombards us all over Instagram and TikTok, just the same as other growing aesthetics, such as cottagecore or witchtok. Any search of #darkacademia is likely to conjure up posts of philosophical quotations and monochrome outfit ideas. Alternatively, there may be an assortment of classic Penguin books, placed between ornamental flowers and cups of coffee. And then this artistic genre is brought into the real world. Wandering through museums, admiring ancient statues, and reading in a candlelit corner are all methods of making the dark academia aesthetic a reality. As opposed to the extreme melancholic mood associated with the theme on a first search, dark academia represents a form of nostalgia and idyllic escapism.

The Aesthetic
Dark academia has transcended its literary origins to embed itself within society as a lifestyle culture, providing inspiration for fashion, design, and the arts. Typically characterized with a muted color palette, the dark style emboldens itself with a variety of earthy, autumnal hues: black, burgundy, gold, dark green. This classically included tweed jackets and plaid skirts in "The Secret History", but can be extended in more modern times to trench coats, Chelsea boots, and Docs. As a result, the look can be conceived as 'preppy', reflecting the wealthy, private school ideals of dark academia. Ralph Lauren has taken on this mantle, taking the aesthetic to the designer level while maintaining the casual air of indifference. Their fall collections for the last few years have brought the dark academia aesthetic to the forefront of fashion: checked coats, autumnal knitwear, and all things monochrome.

From the Ralph Lauren Fall 2016 Ready-To-Wear Collection: Luca Tombolini

With the gloomy days of autumn in full swing, the world around us is beginning to take on a darker color palette to match the somber atmosphere. Perhaps now is the perfect time to explore the subculture of dark academia, one charming book and checked shirt at a time.