Fashion, in all its forms, is a subjective art form that can make up a good portion of our individual personalities. But some pieces are objectively… ugly, as labelled by society and social media. The fashion kaleidoscope is so big that not everything can be trendy, so some things are just not it. But we tend to go through cycles of trends, where our opinions of fashion niches change.

Think skinny jeans, which at one point were the peak of fashion, but we have now collectively decided they are the worst possible outfit choice and disaster is inevitable should they be selected. But it's almost certain that they will come back around. This analogy applies to Birkenstock amongst many, many other brands… just reversed. Birkenstock went from being disregarded by the mainstream and mainly only popular for those wanting to go against society and make a statement, to being the complete it-girl must-have. Labelled as ugly to being on runways. Being weird to being the epitome of drip. It’s an inspiring timeline that leaves us questioning what caused the switch-up. So ugly they're cute? Or clout-chasing?

Birkenstock, of 1774, originally began trading as a footwear brand focusing on orthopedics, not fashion. They have always produced unique contributions to the footwear world, with knowledge on the health of feet as the main focus rather than aesthetics, built over generations of family research and design. The work of Carl and Konrad Birkenstock stands out from an orthopedic point of view – they created some of the iconic systems, shape and material combinations, and products that are still sold today. Birkenstock are probably most famous for their original anatomically shaped inlays, which provided support for the arches, joints, and bones of the feet; something very avant-garde for the era. The iconic Birkenstock footbed, trademarked in 1925, is still used in their footwear today, and the natural anatomy and mobility of the foot is still paramount in their products.

Ashley Olsen in Birkenstock Arizona, 2014. Image by Getty Images, accessed via Vogue Australia © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Under all this knowledge, are they actually ugly though? Fashion did not come into the equation until Karl Birkenstock joined the business in 1954, as the fifth generation of knowledge but the first of style… or lack of. For the first time, Birkenstock’s iconic anatomic inlays were available as a sandal, named the Original Birkenstock-Footbed Sandal. And spoiler alert, it was not everyone’s fav shoe on the market. It was kinda ahead of its time, perhaps too out there for a 1960s audience, who likely much preferred the elegance of a stiletto, which is what the fashion trends were leaning more towards. Society probably much preferred the footwear they were used to, rather than the boldness of modern designs. Of which, Karl Birkenstock’s sandals were the exact description.
They had a futuristic one-strap design with the iconic cork footbed as the base, known for its immense health benefit, but maybe less of a fashion benefit. Most of the foot and the toes were exposed, which, especially in the case of menswear, was not super popular at the time. So, they just never really took off. They were only really popular amongst subcultures in society who wanted to make a statement or rebel against the norms.
But somehow, the sandal did become cool for everyone, as it’s still sold today as the ‘Madrid’, renamed in 1979. Birkenstock overcame adversity, going from being kind of weird and edgy, to being one of the world’s footwear powerhouses. Maybe still weird and edgy, but in a positive way, depending on who you ask. A sign of status.

Birkenstock Madrid, the one-strap buckle sandal. Photo by Getty Images, accessed via British Vogue © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

This was just the first bold move by Karl. Even though the mainstream didn’t really vibe with his one-strap sandal, he did not stop creating. He is responsible for the most Instagrammable and styled Birkenstock styles, like the Boston and the Arizona, which still intertwined all of the orthopedic knowledge and traditional Birkenstock methods, just with a sprinkle of style and unapologetic attitude.

Society’s reaction to Birkenstock is definitely interesting. We still see it today, when something new comes to the market, it’s either immediately labelled as ‘weird’, even ‘ugly’, or it's taken on board and becomes a trend. Sometimes a bit of both, for example in the case of bubble skirts. Like Birkenstock, they have been sent down the runway by some huge names like JW Anderson, and are adored by some people, yet on social media they are causing a stir. Similarly for Birkenstock, who have also had their moment on a catwalk btw – see Valentino RTW Spring/Summer 2024, Perry Ellis Spring/Summer 1993, and others. They have collabed with fashion giants but still can’t beat the ‘ugly’ allegations. Still, we continue to buy them. Perhaps there is something alluring about the whole ugly vibe, like so ugly that they’re cute.

The Boston in particular is, on paper, ‘ugly’. It’s a unique blend between a clog and a house slipper, with one strap close to the ankle. It’s available in suede, oiled leather and other materials, typically in the famous Birkenstock neutral colour palette of beiges, browns and taupes. This is one of the Birkenstock designs that receives the most stick online, so why do we keep buying them?
One reason, perhaps, is we see them everywhere. They are no stranger to being styled by it-girls like Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber. They’re super easy to style because of the neutral colourways, and we constantly get outfit inspo online proving that they go with literally anything. In personal opinion, Birkenstock Bostons with streetwear goes hard – maybe a pair of baggy jorts or jeans with an oversized jersey or vest in summer… accessorising with a bandana or even socks (a whole separate debate). In the colder months, they can serve as the focal point of a monochrome outfit, and pair very well with a bomber jacket or joggers. They effectively marry minimalism with any style and any outfit.
This alone proves the influence social media and influencers can have on trends. You may think a shoe is ugly (Crocs have fallen into this storyline too) until you see Kendall styling it, and then suddenly everyone has got a pair, in multiple colours. It’s also kinda satisfying to go against what society says is right, especially when even Birkenstock has claimed the ‘ugly’ comments and turned it around to use it as something positive. Hence the slogan Ugly for a Reason. Iconic. I saw Lucy Hale wearing athleisure and Birkenstock, so I bought athleisure and Birkenstock.

Another reason Birkenstock has us in a chokehold is the genuine comfort. Of course, Birkenstock are famous for their supportive and health-oriented footwear. The shoes provide effective stability and support for the feet, with natural and sustainable materials, so as we move towards a more sustainable fashion industry, more people, especially Gen Z, are prioritising health and avoiding anything not serving value. Birkenstocks are a top pick.

They have always been a shoe synonymous with rebellion, so it’s a full circle moment for us to go against the idea that Birkenstocks are ugly, and wear them anyways. There is really nothing like the Boston on the market rn. Of course, there are many Birkenstock sandal styles that are popular, but the Bostons really stand out.

Nowadays, Birkenstock doesn't just make sandals. They are a brand of many footwear mediums: trainers, ballet flats, even slippers, which ironically do kinda resemble the Boston. Are these styles also irrevocably ugly? Honestly, their trainers have a chic design and would be a very effective, dare I say fashionable, office shoe. The simplistic nature makes them very versatile – with most being lace-up and made of suede, leather or canvas equipped with a white sole and the iconic anatomical footbed. They would go with anything. Again, they’re available in a range of colourways with a particular acquisition of the neutral palette, so they relate to the minimalist trend that’s pretty prevalent rn. It’s giving clean girl.
As for the ballet flats, they are also very chic and perfectly aligned with current trends, just with a very supportive sole that collide fashion and function.

So, that leads us to continue to question. Are Birkenstocks actually ‘ugly’? According to objective fashion ‘norms’ and trends – yes. Are they also their own niche, chic trend? Also yes. Some styles will never leave the eyes of the paparazzi, some are kinda questionable. But regardless, Birkenstock’s timeline from being a symbol of rebellion to being adored worldwide is one of the most interesting of the industry, and highlights just how much the media can influence our fashion-obsessed minds. We form an opinion that a shoe is ugly, but in the same realm we see celebrities styling them with no shame, making us desperate for a pair. A clever marketing tool or a brand that stays true to their original values and vibe? Probably both. Ugly for a Reason.

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