Avavav’s Milan Fashion Runway Explained
Once more, Avavav’s autumn/winter 2024 fashion show on February 25th, as part of Milan Fashion Week, was a spectacle. The runway, along with the models, was covered with waste, while attendees enthusiastically tossed trash onto the runway. But why? The unconventional display left many viewers perplexed as videos of the event quickly went viral, sparking widespread curiosity about its underlying message.
Avavav, the Swedish-owned brand based in Florence, has built a reputation for its runway theatrics. Over the years, they have consistently utilized the runway as a platform to address societal issues and convey important messages. Just last September, their spring/summer 2024 collection was described as ‘stress-induced chaos,’ yet it served as another vehicle for conveying a profound message. And indeed, the Milan show lived up to expectations, offering even more chaos this time around.
Setting the Scene
26 models maintained stoic expressions as they were bombarded with various items of trash. Guests were encouraged to hurl food waste, fruit peels, crumpled cans, and paper at the models as they strutted down the runway. As the show advanced, the accumulation of waste on the runway became increasingly hazardous, leading to several models slipping amidst the debris. In a dramatic climax, creative director Beate Karlsson was swarmed and pied as she greeted the audience at the end of the show.
Models walking (and falling) on the runway for the finale of the Avavav show. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images.
A model on the runway covered in trash. Credit: Marco M. Mantovani/Getty Images.
Beate Karlsson pied at the end of the show. Credit: Getty Images.
Behind the Concept
The underlying concept behind the spectacle was to symbolize the toxicity of internet culture, particularly in response to the brand’s own experiences with online criticism. From the outset, the mood was set with two screens scrolling through endless streams of social media hate speech, adorning the runway with comments such as ‘it’s giving nothing’, ‘so methy’, ‘impressed by how bad this is’, ‘if Satan had a child’, and ‘avavav is so overrated’. However, the target was not solely Avavav; the show aimed to shed light on the pervasive online harassment faced by models on a daily basis. Karlsson emphasized that when the idea was presented to the models, they were fully supportive and enthusiastic about participating in the show.
A model hit with various liquids. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images.
The runway audience, empowered to hurl waste at the models, served as a physical manifestation of this online hate. Prior to the show, white latex gloves decorated with the Avavav logo were placed on each seat, not merely to keep hands clean but as a symbolic gesture. Buckets brimming with trash were strategically positioned for attendees to throw at the models, alongside shots of vodka just to loosen them up. When questioned about the purpose of the gloves, one attendee responded, “I don’t know — everyone else is?” Another attendee pieced together the intention, stating, “I think we’re gonna throw trash,” eagerly pulling on the gloves in anticipation. Initially initiated by planted actors, the throwing of rubbish soon encouraged participation from others in the front row. Reflecting on the presentation post-show, as she wiped the cream from her eyes, Karlsson remarked to Dazed that the concept was “kind of inspired by medieval times, when people would throw rotten tomatoes at performances they didn’t like.”
Pre-show; gloves and buckets of trash set for guests of the runway show. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post.
Pre-show; buckets of trash set for guests of the runway show. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post.
Karlsson’s signature chaotic runway displays never fail to captivate audiences, injecting a sense of innovation and amusement that contrasts with the typical seriousness of the fashion industry. Despite the airborne barrage of garbage, the message behind the spectacle did not overshadow the delivery of the autumn/winter 2024 collection. Departing from the familiar realm of “luxury streetwear” that Karlsson has previously championed, this collection introduces a fresh emphasis on tailoring and deconstructed elements, resulting in pieces that are more commercially viable and wearable than ever before.
An attendee posing on the runway post-show. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post.
