At The Apex, There Is Collapse
"For us, Collapse signifies reaching the pinnacle, a personal satisfaction. At the apex, there is collapse. This vision is both optimistic and pessimistic because after the apex, there is only the Collapse," say Vittorio Volpi and Filippo Mantini.
Their journey in creating Collapse, a clothing brand, reflects their personal vision centered on sustainability, fluidity, craftsmanship, and their connection to their region, Umbria, specifically Città di Castello. They wanted to invest in something that would give voice to their creativity. "After completing our three-year degree program at the Italian Institute of Design, we decided to invest our money in something that would highlight our ideas, rather than pursuing a master's degree," Vittorio explains. The name "Collapse" was the starting point and inspiration for their brand. "With our background in graphic design, starting with the brand identity came naturally. Drawing inspiration from the name itself, we aimed to translate 'Collapse' into imagery that incorporates our entire design style – it's us!" they add. Collapse is an innovative brand, with fluidity and sustainability at its core. They design each product as unisex, eliminating any gender distinctions. Every garment from Collapse, meticulously crafted, moves beyond the typical male-female binary, aiming to represent individual identities. Collapse is also committed to minimizing environmental impact, using fabrics and raw materials from a controlled and certified supply chain.
"Our materials often come from scraps of large productions. We cut fabrics by hand, making our entire production process artisanal. This approach avoids the energy wastage of machinery and laser cutting. Even our packaging, from boxes to tag cords, is made from recycled materials, and we strictly avoid plastic," Vittorio adds. They have also initiated the ECOLLAPSE project, planting trees with each new product launch to improve air quality and preserve soil and biodiversity.
Embracing slow fashion, Collapse's production takes place entirely in Italy, specifically in central Italy, by skilled local artisans. "Supporting local businesses is very important to us," says Filippo. "We are exploring a project to sell cut but unsewn T-shirts at a lower price. This provides work for smaller artisans like tailors and pattern makers who have been instrumental in our project. It also shows people the effort that goes into making a garment. In today's fast-paced world, we believe in relearning the value of patience." They acknowledge the challenges of their location choice in Umbria, noting that it can limit product diffusion and make it challenging to establish the right contacts. Starting a brand from scratch has its challenges. "The first problem was financial," they reveal. "With a very limited budget, we had to learn a lot about the fashion world quickly. For example, we now know how to make a T-shirt pattern. We've also faced rejections from companies that prefer larger orders." Visibility is crucial for emerging brands. "Two directors, intrigued by Collapse's identity, contacted us with the idea of making a Fashion Film. It was an incredible experience that captured the essence of our brand," Filippo elaborates. The film represents all aspects of Collapse, showcasing the garments and conveying fluidity and sustainability against a forest backdrop. "The film talks about ascent, and at the apex, there's always a point of collapse or rebirth. The final scene with the child being born again symbolizes this idea." Collapse is growing steadily, now boasting three retail stores in central Italy in addition to its online sales. The brand has gained exposure through the X-Factor Italy program, with several contestants wearing Collapse pieces. The founders are ambitious about the future. "Our goal is to increase production while maintaining our ethical standards. We dream of opening our space, a flagship store where we can host inclusive events and foster creativity," they conclude.
