Hedi’s Exclusive Reality
Courtesy of Celine
At Celine Men's Spring 2024, the models resembled iconic rock stars of yesteryear, donning snug leather trousers and dazzling shirts. Celine's artistic director, Hedi Slimane, captured footage of his models in July during the cancellation of its Spring 2024 collection due to public unrest in France. The show appeared to showcase a compilation of the most ‘HEDI SLIMANE’ aesthetic and the atmosphere of his work and genius as a designer. These included slim-fit black suits, white shirts, and skinny ties, initially introduced by Slimane during his tenure at Dior Homme and later at Saint Laurent. Additionally, the French designer introduced a novel runway posture, characterized by hands deeply tucked into jacket pockets, exuding an air of carefree confidence reminiscent of Slimane's exclusive male muses, including Pete Doherty, Earl Cave, Reuben Ramacher, and the recently added Levon Hawke, son of actor Ethan Hawke, who starred in CELINE HOMME’s “Portrait of a…” series this year. Slimane incorporated black halter tops, bustiers, satin bows, puff sleeves, and off-the-shoulder necklines, adding feminine touches to the dark feminine masculinity of his male muses and sleek designs, redefining a more slim and thin male body type now a common sight in today’s runways. There is an element within his work that strikes a chord with numerous young males, particularly those who do not conform to the conventional notion of masculinity.
Slimane previously captured the burgeoning art scene in New York during the early 2000s, recently returned to witness its revival post-pandemic, and photographed portraits of alternative musicians, artists, and club-goers. Consequently, the film can be interpreted as a homage to the vibrant energy and youthful artistic communities that continue to inspire him. Slimane, a renowned French photographer and fashion designer, has significantly contributed to the industry's demand, honing a signature style consistently noticeable throughout his career. He served as the creative director for Dior Homme, the distinguished menswear line of Christian Dior, from 2000 to 2007. Following this, he held the position of creative director for Yves Saint Laurent from 2012 to 2016, renaming it Saint Laurent Paris. Since 2018, Slimane has assumed Celine's creative, artistic, and image director role, further solidifying his influence in fashion.
He has accomplished something many designers and artists aspire to achieve: instantly recognizing their work as their own. No matter which house he has designed, it is self-evident when an image, an idea, or a look is inspired by Slimane and his vision, which gives him a level of authority most creatives never see in their lifetime. Slimane showcases the epitome of timeless rock-n-roll fashion. While anyone can sport a denim jacket, his unique styling and personal flair elevate it to extraordinary heights. His passion for music and photography envelops him in a realm of exclusivity reminiscent of a distinctive Renaissance man. He possesses marketable qualities that can fuse brands he’s worked with and an appeal that introduces fashion to the everyday fashion novice. Slimane occupies spaces within brands that were once renowned for their intellectualism, individuality, and artistic creativity. Celine (previously Céline) was tailored for women who derived their power from sources other than sexuality, utilizing the vision of Phoebe Philo and embracing a woman's cultural creativity and independence. Slimane altered the brand to a new approach vastly different from Philo’s direction in womenswear, hindering the love of various admirers for the brand.
Slimane exemplifies the desires of the people and the products he offers. While other brands may showcase extravagant shows featuring artistic ensembles, their sales consist of logo t-shirts and bulky sneakers. On the other hand, Slimane plays a distinct game, yet the outcome remains the same: profits regarding the demands under LVMH. There is still room for artistic expression within fashion, but not all art needs to be groundbreaking and overtly flamboyant, as gimmicks seem to be more of a performance than the actual sales pitch. Slimane’s artistry embodies the coolness of classic rock & roll, the indie/misfit lifestyle, the longevity of simplicity, the captivating essence of black and white photography, and the authenticity of real stories through real people. While much of fashion resembles contemporary art, Slimane’s design vision aligns more closely with his photography - genuine and authentic to what he considers his reality.
